Mount Keen

The weather forecast predicted showery rain, light winds, and low cloud, but as I set off to ascend Mt Keen it was the week’s preceding downpours that were upper most in my thinking.  Heavy rain, swollen rivers, and flooded roads had been the main entertainment during my drive to Braemar the previous evening. Originally I’d planned to add to my haul of Monroes with a lightening raid on The Devil's Point via the Derry Lodge route, however I'd altered my objective after reasoning that I’d rather save that particular summit for better conditions; preferably winter conditions with the possibility of a night in a snow shelter enroute.
Nevertheless, walking in via the Glen Tanar route initially seemed a mistake, because the track was ideal for a mountain bike approach.  However, my slower pace through the pine forests and moorland was soon rewarded with better views of the surrounding autumn scenery and wildlife.

I didn't linger for long at the cold, wet, and windy summit, but as I reached the track in the Glen during my descent I met a luckier lone walker who was destined to make the summit in the mid afternoon sunshine.

When I finally reached the car park again, seven and a half hours after setting off, my feet felt well and truly pounded, but at least I'd achieved my first new Monroe summit of the year, and driving back to Braemar Youth Hostel I was comforted by the thought that if I maintain this rapid rate of progress I should finish the Monros in 2041.
Jago

Cornwall

 Way down in the south west we missed the rains and flooding in Yorkshire and managed some climbing to boot.
On Monday we all went to Chair Ladder where Paul and Christine climbed South face Direct (VS 4c), Clive and Nick climbed Pendulum chimney (HS 4b) and Colin and Bev climbed Terriers Tooth (VD) although the first pitch was inaccessible due to high seas. The same conditions caused Christine to be drenched by a rogue wave while belaying at the bottom of their route.  

Clive on the first pitch of Pendulum Chimney

On Tuesday we walked down to Bosigran from the hut and managed a few routes despite the ever-present threat of rain showers. Clive and Nick climbed Ochre Slab (S 4a) and Doorway (S 4a) while Colin and Bev did Clob (VD) and Alison rib (D).
Paul and Christine climbed Venusberg (VS 4c) and Little Brown Jug (VS 5a).

Paul leading the final pitch of  Little Brown Jug.

On Wednesday the rains drifted south and the day was spend birding and visiting tourist spots.
Thursday was better and we all headed for Gurnards Head to climb Right Angle (HS 4b). Christine led off the first rope of three to the first belay. Thereafter Paul led Christine and Colin. A quick exploration down the second pitch showed it to be wet so he continued across the 4b traverse line to belay at the bottom of  the corner. The guide book described a cramped stance but a lower semi-hanging belay was roomy enough for three people. From there he led the fine corner to the top.
Clive led the second rope with Bev and Nick following.

Christine on the traverse into the corner

The corner of Right Angle; Clive leading

Nick in the corner of Right Angle

Clive, Nick and Christine succumbed to the lure of a day trip to the Scilley Isles on friday while Paul, Colin and Bev did Bosigran Ridge (VD) once known as Commando Ridge.

Bev starting Bosigran Ridge

Bev high up on Bosigran Ridge.

Stanage on Sunday

A beautiful late summer morning and me and Paul set out for the plantation area of Stanage. I started off by leading Wall End Slab (VS 5a) which has a hard start and steady climbing thereafter.

Wall End Slab 

Crossing the slab

 We moved over to Tower face a classic HVS 5a which Paul led. This climb has some scary climbing through a brittle flake to more solid rock but still with trying moves right to the top.
Another move on past the crowds on Paradise wall brought us to Namenlos (E1 5a) which gave Paul his first grit E point of the season after I failed to lead the tough initial crack. The fact that this was Paul's first E point of the season speaks volumes about the weather this summer.
We finished up on Dover's Wall where I led Route 4 (VS 4b).

Stanage High Neb.

Paul was waiting in the car park when I arrived and a text told me that Mick and Nidal were battling with the Three Sisters. We headed for High Neb where I led Tango Buttress (HS 5a) for a warm up, the 5a moves are right at the start then steady severe climbing follows.
Paul then led High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) which gave some lovely slab climbing.
Mick and Nidal turned up having had a spanking by the sisters as I started up Norse Corner climb (HS 4c). This climb has a tough start then relents and meanders up the cliff maintaining interest throughout.
Christine turned up late as usual as Mick and Nidal departed and joined me and Paul on Inaccessible Crack (VS 4c) which Paul led.  

Paul leading Inaccessible Crack 

Paul then brought the evening to a close by leading Christine up Gunter (VS 5a) which has steady climbing up to a hard finish.

NZ Ski Trip

All hope had almost been lost for the ski season, with every NZ field scratching about to put a few flakes together, when in late July the first of three big storms arrived, depositing a metre of snow on the eastern hills of the South Island.  This was followed at intervals of a week by two almost identical storms.  These produced happy skiers, and nervous residents in the Canterbury plains, due to flood risk.  So three times in three weeks we enjoyed watching a branch of the Te Moana river running down the road past our house.

So having done the requisite amount of digging to help get our club skifield going, and finally got our ski legs, Joan and I headed up and away from the tows last Thursday to ski Fox Peak.  We skinned up the north ridge, going well until near the top of a shoulder, where powder over an icy crust necessitated carrying the skis and kicking steps for a while.  Then on and up to the summit without further problems, unless you count fatigue.  The run down was great:  we abandoned the ridge for a deep powder gully, and down into the North Basin, which I had never previously seen as full of snow.  Then on and back to rejoin the skifield. 

The quantity of snow about should be good for a few ski touring trips before the season ends. 

Rob
26/8/2012

Froggat

Paul and me decided to climb on Froggat and Jen came along to see what it was all about. The forecast was for heavy showers but the sun was shining as we hauled up by Joe's Slab. I decided to lead Trapeze Direct (VS 5a) which was bit of a one move wonder albeit taxing for the ageing climber.

Paul then led Sickle buttress direct (VS 4c) which has some nice steep wall climbing.

Paul leading Sickle buttress Direct

A walk along the edge past a group of climbers below Todys Wall  took us to Sunset Crack which I led. While I was belaying the air ambulance circled round us and landed on the moor behind the crag. It transpired that a climber had fallen from high up one of the harder climbs near Tody's Wall and decked out.
Paul then led Hawks Nest Crack (VS 4c) a route I hadn't done for many years and which gives some typical gritstone thrutching leading to a fine open finish on rough rock.
Finally I led North climb (S4a) which was more pleasant than it looked.

North Climb

Dovestone Edge

It was the usual (for this summer) rainy Sunday so Colin, Bev, Jen and I had a walk over Dovestone Edge in the Chew Valley. This was an area I hadn't visited for a year or two and there had been some changes. The RSPB had taken over the management of the area including the car park by the sailing club and parking was free for members.
We set off up the service road to the reservoir dam high on the moor then walked back along the edge. Between the rain and hail showers we managed some good views over the valley and towards Wimberry, Aldermans Head and Manchester.

We dropped down after crossing Dovestone Clough and traversed below the edge and Dovestone Quarry back th the car park.

Curbar Evening

I arrived late at Curbar Gap car park to find it unusually devoid of climbers, just a couple of young girls and a couple of middle aged mountain bikers. As I was about to write the evening off I had a phone call from Christine who was stuck in traffic in Sheffield but wanted to get at least one route in.  
Eventually she arrived and we headed for P.M.C.1 (HS 4a) which I lead. My lack of climbing fitness showed on the initial steep jamming cracks but I enjoyed the moves from the ledge as always. My stint on the belay was enlivened by the sight of the aforementioned young girls stripping off and posing on the boulders for an old guy with a camera.

PMC 1

I then led Owl's Arete (HS 4c) before dusk and the easterly breeze brought the midges out forcing an end to the nights climbing.

Rock at Last

Once again just Me and Jago turned up for the Llanberis meet and once again it was raining in the Pass. Things looked brighter out west so after a brief browse round the climbing shops we set of to Anglesey and Holyhead Mountain.

Approaching Holyhead Mountain

Both being less than match fit we decided to try a few VS's and Jago led Teaser, a slabby corner and then led Tension, a good climb pulling through small bulges on good holds. I then led Comfortably Numb a pleasant slab climb with a gritstone like finish on rounded holds.

Jago leading Teaser

On Sunday we again headed for Anglesey this time to climb Imitator on Gogarth. This is a two pitch VS which takes the line of the shadow on the first buttress in the picture then breaks left and up to the top of the buttress.

Jago led off up an awkward groove before pulling onto the slab and trending rightwards on good holds to a belay. The second pitch crossed a nice slabby wall then finished over doubtful blocks by delicate moves to a scramble to the top.

Langdale Weekend

Foul weather on the Friday night of the the proposed Duddondale camping meet caused Jago and me to  divert to hut accommodation in Langdale.
On Saturday the bad weather continued so we opted for a relatively low level walk doing Caw and Stickle Pike near Torver. We managed the summit of Caw in relatively dry conditions but then the weater turned and we completed the walk in the wet. Despite a couple of wrong turns, never lost just mislaid, we managed the round.

On Sunday the weather was slightly better so once again we did a couple of low hills, this time Blea rigg and Silver Howe near Grasmere. The weather improved slowly through the day and we were able to enjoy some views.