Borrowdale Weekend

Christine, Nick, Jago and me met at the CC hut at Grange in Borrowdale on Friday night for this meet. Saturdays forecast was for snow showers so we decided to climb Great Gable from Seathwaite. We approached Styhead by the right hand bank of Styhead Gill which involves some easy scrambling and good waterfall views.
By the time we reached the rescue box at Styhead the hailstones were heavy enough to have lunch.

Lunchtime at Styhead

 From Styhead a good well made path leads up the west ridge of Great Gable to the summit where we admired the new FRCC memorial to their war dead.

Summit

From the summit we descended to Windy Gap where below the cloud level we had great views of Ennerdale.

Descent to Windy Gap

 

View from Windy Gap.

 A short ascent then took us to Green Gable and then on to Base Brown. The descent from Base Brown was tricky on wet snow lying on steep, wet, grassy slopes but eventually we reached Sour Milk Gill and the track down to Seathwaite.
On returning to Grange we discovered Dennis had arrived and had constructed a new picnic bench in the hut grounds.
Although the weather was better on Sunday the aches and pains from Saturday precluded another day out on the hills so after a short walk down the valley we headed home.

Tremadoc

Jago, Paul and me attended this meet based in the Ogwen valley. Weather conditions in the valley drove us to Tremadoc where there was a prospect of dry rock. We decided to tackle a route called Mensor on Craig y Castell a VS with two 4c pitches.
I led the first pitch which gave some entertaining climbing and Jago led the second pitch again with sustained interest.
Paul decided to investigate the buttresses further west for his lead so off we went. After spending some time thrashing through the jungle and gazing expectantly at obscure bits of rock we finally located the first buttress. this was a disappointment, all green and not very inviting so we gave up and headed for the cafe.
On Sunday the same weather conditions appertained so again we headed for Tremadoc this time to climb Meshach (HVS 4c, 5a) on Bwlch y Moch.
Jago set out on the first pitch but route finding difficulties on the final traverse forced him to belay on Shadrach and Paul followed to finish the pitch. As I prepared to follow the grey skies turned to rain so I declined, they abseiled down and we all retreated to the cafe again.

Jago starting the first pitch...

...and Paul following

Stanage on Sunday

A lovely autumn morning and me and Paul are at Stanage Wall End looking at wall End slab (VS 5a). I start out on the hard left hand start but am soon defeated and climb it further right. The rest of the route goes fairly easily protected by friends until the start of the traverse. The traverse and the final slab finish are virtually unprotected so it is with some relief that I reach the top. Paul follows by the thin left hand start and it is his turn to lead.
He decides on Fern Crack (VS 5a) and laybacks the initial crack which leads to an overhung offwidth which is overcome with some difficulty.

Paul getting stuck into the offwidth

Next we take a look at the little visited Outlook area where I lead Lookout Flake (S 4b) which has a hard start and a hard finish with nothing much in between. Paul then leads Outlook Crack (VS 4c) a perfect jamming crack though like the last route quite short.
By now we are feeling thrashed so repair to the cafe for tea and cake.

Cornwall

Seven members and friends went down to Cornwall for some sun baked rock and cream teas basing ourselves at the Count House a CC hut.
First morning and thick mist shrouded the moor and the top of Bosigran could not be seen. After a morning of drinking tea the mist lifted the sun came out and we all set off for Bosigran.
Doorway and Doorpost were the routes of choice with Christine leading Nick and me, Colin and Bev making up a second rope and Frank Staniland leading his flying mate Alan Clark.

Christine leading the twin cracks of Doorpost.

All the teams completed their routes without incident before repairing back to the hut.
Day two was slightly less misty and Sennen Cove was chosen as the day's venue. On abseiling into the zawn we found the rock to be greasy in places but Demo face appeared to be dry. After some prevarication Christine decided to lead Demo Route only to find that the chimney pitch was very greasy and as Nick and I found out it required a great expenditure of energy to reach the good holds. The next pitch was in better condition but our leader wasn't so some hanging on ropes was required to overcome it.

The normal crux of Demo Route.

The other ropes climbed Black Slab (VD) which also was greasy and we all decided that was enough for that day and resorted to fish and chips, cream teas and clifftop walks to finish the day.
For the final days climbing we all went to Halldrine Cove which was a new venue for us. Our guide book only showed five routes all Diff or V Diff. but a topo in the hut showed some new lines up to VS. The crag turned out to be gentle in nature, a great place for playing. Various routes were climbed up to VS and some enjoyed a good soloing session, a rarity on a sea cliff.

Nick following the VS slab

Clive leading out on a HS traverse.

Langdale Meet

Jago and me based ourselves at the Wayfarers hut for this meet hoping for a good days climbing before the forecast atrocious weather on Sunday.
Saturday was fine so we headed for Raven Crag. I noticed a two starred VS called Mendes located on the side of Middlefell Buttress which I could not recollect doing before.
I led the first pitch which led on good holds to a small belay ledge. Jago led the next cricial pitch which although steep and a little intimidating had some good holds.

Jago perusing the crux moves on Mendes.

A short steep wall brought us onto the crest of Middlefell Buttress and the descent route.
Next we did an old favourite Bilberry Buttress a three star, three pitch VS which Jago led throughout.

Taking in the view from Raven Crag

At the top we relaxed for a while and enjoyed the views in the sunshine before heading back to the hut.
On Sunday the forecast wind and rain arrived so we headed back home via a cafe at Clapham..

Lawrencefield Evening

At last a midge free evening, in fact with a cool stiff breeze and a hint of rain in the air it felt like a return to normal British climbing conditions when Jago, Nidal and me arrived.
I was first out of the blocks with a lead of Nova (HS 4b). Jago and Nidal followed as did Christine when she arrived late as usual.

Nova

Nova - Clive leading

  Jago then led Tyron (HVS 4c) which Nidal followed while I led Christine on Gingerbread (VS 4b). Gingerbread is a nice arete climb and being short we finished in time to cadge a top rope on Tyron. This gave steady climbing to a steep finish on good but spaced holds.

Tyron - Jago leading

Tyron - Christine on the Crux moves.

 By now light was fading so we had to call it a day and by the time Jago had packed up mountain rescue bods were prowling round in the dark with heavy duty torches searching for volunteer 'bodies'.

Froggat Evening

Me and Mick arrived at the Sunset Slab area to find it throng so we nipped round the corner to Terrace Crack (HS 4b). This route had long faded from my memory although I reckoned I must have done it before. Anyway I opted for the lead because a few midges were making their presence felt and it was breezy on top.
The route evoked only faint memories which was surprising since it gave good climbing with bomber protection. Mick soon followed and we headed down to find the midges had increased somewhat so we decided to go to the Great Slab area which was more open and where we met Christine who had just arrived.
Mick decided to lead Trapeze Direct (VS 5a) which is really a severe with one hard move. He set off just as the midges found us and by the time he had overcome the crux they were in out their thousands.

Trapeze Direct - Mick contemplating the crux

Trapeze Direct - Clive on the crux.

 I followed to find to my dismay that the breeze at the top had subsided and the midges were biting freely. Christine came up next complaining all the way about being bitten while she was climbing. It was a no-brainer to decide to pack up and leave early along with all the other teams who were out that night.

Curbar Evening Meet.

Mick, Christine and Jago turned out for this evening meet and ended up at the usual Avalanche Wall - Elder Buttress area.

Mick led the usual PMC1 (HS 4a) starter and Jago led the usual Owl's Arete (HS 4c) finishing course.

Christine following P.M.C.1.

Torridon

The following was submitted by Jago.

As I arrived at the Torridon village campsite on Thursday evening I was met by the traditional summer greeting party of incalculable midges and heavy rain.  After a wet night and morning I decided to go for a quick truck up Ben Eighe to tick the summit of Spidean Coire nan Clach (993m) during the afternoon.  The top had been reclassified as a Monroe summit long after I first ascended the peak with Mick during spring bank holiday in 1988.   

The following day the weather improved a little providing prolonged sunny spells in between the regular downpours.  I therefore opted to do Moaile Lunndaidh (1007m) from Glen Carron, which provide a long tough day’s hillwalking amongst majestic scenery. 

The Roaches

A fine but blustery Sunday found Me, Paul and Christine on a long delayed visit to the Roaches. We headed for Blushing Buttress to avoid the worst of the gusts and I kicked off by leading Right-Hand Route (S 4b) a good solid climb with laybacks and jams and an overhand to finish.

Right-Hand Route

Paul and Christine followed and so that the right hand knew what the left hand was doing, Paul led Left-Hand Route. This was variously graded HVD 4a to HS 4b but after a layback start gives more delicate climbing to finish.
We moved to Calcutta Buttress where I led Calcutta Crack (S 4b) another good honest route on cracking jams.

Calcutta Crack

We moved to The Great Slab area where Paul led Technical Slab (HS 4a) and fine climb with reachy moves and spaced protection.

Technical Slab

 To finish the day Paul and Christine did Aqua (VS 4b) on the Central Massif then it was off to the cafe for tea and cakes.

Millstone Evening

Me, Mick and Jago arrived at the Cioch Area of Millstone and Jago set off on The Hacker (VS 4c) which starts up a thin crack to some balance moves round the corner then finishes up an arete.

Jago starting The Hacker.

 this went OK until the balance moves which required a couple of attempts before succumbing. The final arete went without too much trouble and Mick seconded also without too much trouble.
Paul had arrived so we teamed up and I led Brumal (VS 4c) which follows Boomerang to some nice twin cracks which lead to a steep and seemingly crumbly finish. Paul followed and so did Christine.
Paul then led Mayday (HVS 5a) a thin technical route up the left hand arete of the Cioch. I followed and then led the finishing pitch up the arete of The Hacker before Christine followed.
 

Clive seconding Mayday.

 We sneaked off round the corner to avoid the midges and Paul decided to lead Eros (HVS 5a). All went well until the middle section where it all went wrong and off he came.

Paul on Eros

Paul off Eros

Christine retrieved the gear on a top rope and went on to finish the route before we called it a day.
Meanwhile back with the midges Mick led Eartha (HS 4b) to finish their evening.

Bamford evening

Me and Mick were first to arrive and set out for the Salmon Slab area. Black threatening clouds hovered over Kinder as Mick started off leading Browns Crack (HS 4b). I followed and so did Christine who had arrived in the meantime.

Mick leading Browns Crack

Christine seconding

The black clouds had drifted northwards so I set out on Curving Crack (VS 4c). At the top of the crack I found myself in a bit of a tangle and had to retreat. Mick took over and led to the top and we followed without incident.

 

Clive attempting Curving Crack

Llanberis

I arrived at Ynys Ettws early on Friday intending to do something but the weather had other ideas. Not the usual rain but heat; it was seeping from the ground, it was reflected from the walls and it was carried on the breeze. I pitched my tent then slowly wilted while drinking copious amounts of tea and water and deferred any activity until Saturday.
By Saturday Christine and Nick had arrived and we opted for a short walk to the Grochan and Hazel Groove (HS 4b). The route gave two good pitches to start with but then it was a bit scrappy with a tenuous finishing move on the last pitch.

Clive on the traverse of pitch 2.

Christine on pitch 2

On Sunday we went to Anglesey for the birding and cafes while Jago and Della, who had arrived on Saturday afternoon enjoyed time in Llanberis park and Llandudno beach.

Della on her first club meet.

Millstone Evening

A reasonable turn out for this meet with Paul, Christine, Jago, Mick and Nidal congregating at the North Bay area.. Nidal led Remembrance Day (VS 4b) with Mick following as the others arrived.

Mick following Remembrance Day.

Paul then led Estremo and Plexity both good HVS 5a routes and Jago and Mick climbed Lyons Corner House (HVS 5a).

Crow Chin Evening

Me and Mick were first to arrive and after a hot and sweaty walk up I decided to lead Kelly's Eliminate (HS 4a) which has a steep fingery start leading to a pleasant slabby finish. While I was belaying Mick, Jago and Christine arrived and followed in turn.
On reaching the bottom the midges were out so I continued leading Feathered Friends (VS 4b) a slightly bold slab climb with a pull over a perched block while Jago led October Slab (HS 4b), Christine and Mick followed respectively.
I continued by leading Christine on October Slab while Mick led Jago on Bent Crack (VD).
Because of the midges we never paused to take photos so no pictures this time. The midges brought a slightly premature end to the nights activities and I finished off by leading Kellys Eye (HS 4a) and Jago led Feathered Friends.

Froggat

Arriving at Froggat on a fine Sunday morning the first suitable climb that wasn't occupied was Sickle Buttress Direct (VS 4c). I opted to lead this and enjoyed the final fingery moves. Paul followed without difficulty and then decided to lead Broken Crack (VS 5a) which starts with a strenuous lay back and finishes on hand jams which become increasingly insecure. While I was grappling with the jams and an upturned friend Christine arrived and she also followed it.
We were joined by Rick Graham an old acquaintance of Paul's from the north east. We took off to the right hand end of the crag where Rick led Chequers Buttress (HVS 5a) and  Paul followed while I led Christine on Jankers Crack (HS 4b).   

Paul on Chequers Buttress.

Clive tackling the overhangs on Jankers Crack.

Paul led Jankers groove (VS 4c) and Rick and Christine followed. Rick led Jankers End (VS 4b) without the initial traverse with which I seconded then Paul led it and and Christine followed.
After a bit of coaxing Christine led Green Gut (S 4a) and I followed while Rick and Paul did Valkyrie (HVS 5a) the classic climb on the pinnacle which Rick led in one run-out.

Christine leading Green Gut.

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Stanage Evening

I arrived at the meet venue, Stanage End to find it deserted. I eventually found Mick and Nidal lurking amongst the boulders at Marble Wall. They had climbed Richards Sister (HS 4b) and then Mick had led Right Hand Tower (HVS 5b) taking the best part of a hour over the precarious finishing moves but finally succeeding. A good effort for the first HVS of the year.
Neither were able to overcome the final moves of Back Door (VS 4c) so now Nidal was preparing to lead Marble Arete (VS 4c). After a few attempts at the left hand start he finally got established on the climb by the right hand start and cruised the easier upper section to the top.

Nidal leading Marble Arete.

Mick followed by the right hand start and I followed by the left hand start.

Clive on the left hand start.

Bamford Evening

Me, Mick and Nidal arrived at Bamford Edge in warm overcast & humid conditions. I kicked off leading Bamford Wall (S 4a) with Mick and Nidal following.

Bamford Wall

 Jago then arrived and led Bamford Buttresss (HS 4a) while Nidal set out on Oracle but missed the traverse and finished up the chimney. Mick then led Delilah (HS 4a) and I led Twin Cracks (VS 4b) a route that succumbs to wide bridging and long reaches. I had failed to lead it a couple of years earlier so was quite relieved to do it without too much pain in the joints. Jago finished his night by leading Bamford Wall and Mick led Nidal on Bamford Buttress.

Bamford Buttress.

Burbage North

Another fine Sunday so me and Paul headed for Burbage North. I started proceedings with a lead of Mutiny Crack (HS 4c), a fine climb with good positions, good holds and good protection but just not long enough. Paul then led Wollock HVS 4c another fine climb with a testing finish.

Paul leading Wollock.

 I followed by leading Pulcherrime (VS 4b) the crack line to the right which gives a a stiff jamming test.
We then spent lots of time and energy trying to climb The Grogan a gnarly HVS 5b before giving it best and retreating to Hollyash Wall where Paul led Big Chimney Arete (HS 4b).
At this point we succumbed to the lure of tea and cake at Outside cafe.

Summer Sunday on Stanage.

On Sunday Paul and me found themselves at Stanage, a place that we once would have avoided like the plague on a sunny summery day.
We headed for High Neb which was quite busy but not enough to have to queue for routes. Paul started off on the classic old favourite High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) which relents after a stiff start and gives some good delicate slab climbing.

Paul on High Neb Buttress

 I then led Tango Buttress an HS with a 5a start and pleasant climbing above. Next Paul led another old favourite Inaccessible Crack (VS 4c) again with a tough start and interesting moves further up to an good steep finishing crack.
I then attempted Straight Crack (S 4b) but failed on the final moves due to weak arms and lack of moral fibre. Paul led it and solved the crux move without difficulty and I followed with difficulty.
After that we decided that it was time for the cafe and look at replacements for my worn out rock shoes

Burbage South Evening Meet.

The following report is again gleaned from the participants reports so I accept no responsibility for the accuracy thereof.
The attendees split into two teams Mick and Nidal forming one team and Christine and Paul the other.
Nidal began by leading Fox House Flake (VS 4b) while Paul and Christine started out on Staircase (HS 4b) to warm up, they then did Byne's Crack (VS 4b) a classic at the grade.
Mick led Reginald (VS 4b) before making a noisy aided ascent of Roof Route (VS 4c) a notorious off width crack.

Mick leading Reginald.

Paul and Christine then finished on Gable Route (HVS 4c) a more pleasant companion to Roof Route.

May Bank Holiday Weekend

The following is Pauls account of the May day week-end trip to Llanberis.

Jago and Paul joined up with Andy Saxby a fellow CC member at Tremadoc on Saturday climbing a combination of Meshach and Shadrach (VS 4c) followed by an ascent of Scratch (VS 4c).

Andy Saxby on Meshach first Pitch

Jago on Scratch pitch 2.

On Sunday they headed out to the Moelwyns where Jago and Paul climbed Pinky (VS) but failed on Slant due to it being covered in moss and heather.
Meanwhile Colin and Bev climbed Kirkus's Direct (S) and Slack (S).
Mondays gales and rain forced an early trip home.

Llanberis May Day

Clive, Paul and Christine arrived on Saturday afternoon too preoccupied and exhausted with listening to Barnsley FC's last minute survival in the Championship to get any routes in.
Sunday started off windy and drizzly in the pass so we headed for Tremadoc which was drier if no less windy.
Our intention was to do Christmas Curry with the Treemudrock Finish but the queues forced us on to Kestrel Cracks (HVS 5a). Paul led off up the first pitch which gave steep bridging and jamming at a solid VS 4c and Christine and me followed. Christine continued up the easy second pitch and we all gathered on a large stance below the final crucial pitch.
Paul led this up an awkward leaning corner which formed the crux then easier cracks to finish.

Paul leading the crucial corner

After tea and cake in the cafe we managed to complete our initial objective so completing a satisfactory day.
Sunday in the pass was still windy but dry so we set out to do Ribstone Crack on Carreg Wastad but once again the climb was taken. Rather than wait we did went round the corner and climbed Skylon (HS 4b) which had some interesting moves on the crux.

Paul leading Skylon