Borrowdale Meet.

Borrowdale was damp as usual so Me and Jago decided on a walk from the hut at Grange our objectives being Grange Fell and Great Crag. We approached Grange Fell via Black Crag which looked very uninviting as we passed under it.

Rainbow from Troutdale

 We were soon on the fell tops and after a brief diversion to the summit of Jopplety How reached Brund Fell the highest of the several tops of Grange Fell.

Brund Fell Summit

  Our next objective Great Crag lay about a mile away across the fells. We descended to the track which leads from Watendlath to Borrowdale and followed a good track to Great Crag.

Great Crag from Brund Fell

Up to now the weather had been kind to us but by the time we reached Great Crag summit it was raining steadily. We descended to the picturesque Dock Tarn then steeply through woods to Stonethwaite and on to the Cafe at Rosthwaite for lamb stew and cake before following the river back to the hut.
Sunday was drier and we decided on a walk up Bleaberry Fell. on leaving Keswick we were treated to the sight of several waxwings feeding on berries in a garden. We took the Walla Crag path pausing to take in the view before heading across the moor to Bleaberry fell.

View from Walla Crag

Approaching Bleaberry Fell.

     A short fairly steep section took us to the summit where we had views of Helvellyn, Skiddaw and Blencathra before the descent back to Keswick. On the way back we took a short diversion to the Castlerigg stone circle to finish the day.

Blencathra from Castlerigg Stone Circle.

Mount Keen

The weather forecast predicted showery rain, light winds, and low cloud, but as I set off to ascend Mt Keen it was the week’s preceding downpours that were upper most in my thinking.  Heavy rain, swollen rivers, and flooded roads had been the main entertainment during my drive to Braemar the previous evening. Originally I’d planned to add to my haul of Monroes with a lightening raid on The Devil's Point via the Derry Lodge route, however I'd altered my objective after reasoning that I’d rather save that particular summit for better conditions; preferably winter conditions with the possibility of a night in a snow shelter enroute.
Nevertheless, walking in via the Glen Tanar route initially seemed a mistake, because the track was ideal for a mountain bike approach.  However, my slower pace through the pine forests and moorland was soon rewarded with better views of the surrounding autumn scenery and wildlife.

I didn't linger for long at the cold, wet, and windy summit, but as I reached the track in the Glen during my descent I met a luckier lone walker who was destined to make the summit in the mid afternoon sunshine.

When I finally reached the car park again, seven and a half hours after setting off, my feet felt well and truly pounded, but at least I'd achieved my first new Monroe summit of the year, and driving back to Braemar Youth Hostel I was comforted by the thought that if I maintain this rapid rate of progress I should finish the Monros in 2041.
Jago

Cornwall

 Way down in the south west we missed the rains and flooding in Yorkshire and managed some climbing to boot.
On Monday we all went to Chair Ladder where Paul and Christine climbed South face Direct (VS 4c), Clive and Nick climbed Pendulum chimney (HS 4b) and Colin and Bev climbed Terriers Tooth (VD) although the first pitch was inaccessible due to high seas. The same conditions caused Christine to be drenched by a rogue wave while belaying at the bottom of their route.  

Clive on the first pitch of Pendulum Chimney

On Tuesday we walked down to Bosigran from the hut and managed a few routes despite the ever-present threat of rain showers. Clive and Nick climbed Ochre Slab (S 4a) and Doorway (S 4a) while Colin and Bev did Clob (VD) and Alison rib (D).
Paul and Christine climbed Venusberg (VS 4c) and Little Brown Jug (VS 5a).

Paul leading the final pitch of  Little Brown Jug.

On Wednesday the rains drifted south and the day was spend birding and visiting tourist spots.
Thursday was better and we all headed for Gurnards Head to climb Right Angle (HS 4b). Christine led off the first rope of three to the first belay. Thereafter Paul led Christine and Colin. A quick exploration down the second pitch showed it to be wet so he continued across the 4b traverse line to belay at the bottom of  the corner. The guide book described a cramped stance but a lower semi-hanging belay was roomy enough for three people. From there he led the fine corner to the top.
Clive led the second rope with Bev and Nick following.

Christine on the traverse into the corner

The corner of Right Angle; Clive leading

Nick in the corner of Right Angle

Clive, Nick and Christine succumbed to the lure of a day trip to the Scilley Isles on friday while Paul, Colin and Bev did Bosigran Ridge (VD) once known as Commando Ridge.

Bev starting Bosigran Ridge

Bev high up on Bosigran Ridge.

Stanage on Sunday

A beautiful late summer morning and me and Paul set out for the plantation area of Stanage. I started off by leading Wall End Slab (VS 5a) which has a hard start and steady climbing thereafter.

Wall End Slab 

Crossing the slab

 We moved over to Tower face a classic HVS 5a which Paul led. This climb has some scary climbing through a brittle flake to more solid rock but still with trying moves right to the top.
Another move on past the crowds on Paradise wall brought us to Namenlos (E1 5a) which gave Paul his first grit E point of the season after I failed to lead the tough initial crack. The fact that this was Paul's first E point of the season speaks volumes about the weather this summer.
We finished up on Dover's Wall where I led Route 4 (VS 4b).

Stanage High Neb.

Paul was waiting in the car park when I arrived and a text told me that Mick and Nidal were battling with the Three Sisters. We headed for High Neb where I led Tango Buttress (HS 5a) for a warm up, the 5a moves are right at the start then steady severe climbing follows.
Paul then led High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) which gave some lovely slab climbing.
Mick and Nidal turned up having had a spanking by the sisters as I started up Norse Corner climb (HS 4c). This climb has a tough start then relents and meanders up the cliff maintaining interest throughout.
Christine turned up late as usual as Mick and Nidal departed and joined me and Paul on Inaccessible Crack (VS 4c) which Paul led.  

Paul leading Inaccessible Crack 

Paul then brought the evening to a close by leading Christine up Gunter (VS 5a) which has steady climbing up to a hard finish.

NZ Ski Trip

All hope had almost been lost for the ski season, with every NZ field scratching about to put a few flakes together, when in late July the first of three big storms arrived, depositing a metre of snow on the eastern hills of the South Island.  This was followed at intervals of a week by two almost identical storms.  These produced happy skiers, and nervous residents in the Canterbury plains, due to flood risk.  So three times in three weeks we enjoyed watching a branch of the Te Moana river running down the road past our house.

So having done the requisite amount of digging to help get our club skifield going, and finally got our ski legs, Joan and I headed up and away from the tows last Thursday to ski Fox Peak.  We skinned up the north ridge, going well until near the top of a shoulder, where powder over an icy crust necessitated carrying the skis and kicking steps for a while.  Then on and up to the summit without further problems, unless you count fatigue.  The run down was great:  we abandoned the ridge for a deep powder gully, and down into the North Basin, which I had never previously seen as full of snow.  Then on and back to rejoin the skifield. 

The quantity of snow about should be good for a few ski touring trips before the season ends. 

Rob
26/8/2012

Froggat

Paul and me decided to climb on Froggat and Jen came along to see what it was all about. The forecast was for heavy showers but the sun was shining as we hauled up by Joe's Slab. I decided to lead Trapeze Direct (VS 5a) which was bit of a one move wonder albeit taxing for the ageing climber.

Paul then led Sickle buttress direct (VS 4c) which has some nice steep wall climbing.

Paul leading Sickle buttress Direct

A walk along the edge past a group of climbers below Todys Wall  took us to Sunset Crack which I led. While I was belaying the air ambulance circled round us and landed on the moor behind the crag. It transpired that a climber had fallen from high up one of the harder climbs near Tody's Wall and decked out.
Paul then led Hawks Nest Crack (VS 4c) a route I hadn't done for many years and which gives some typical gritstone thrutching leading to a fine open finish on rough rock.
Finally I led North climb (S4a) which was more pleasant than it looked.

North Climb

Dovestone Edge

It was the usual (for this summer) rainy Sunday so Colin, Bev, Jen and I had a walk over Dovestone Edge in the Chew Valley. This was an area I hadn't visited for a year or two and there had been some changes. The RSPB had taken over the management of the area including the car park by the sailing club and parking was free for members.
We set off up the service road to the reservoir dam high on the moor then walked back along the edge. Between the rain and hail showers we managed some good views over the valley and towards Wimberry, Aldermans Head and Manchester.

We dropped down after crossing Dovestone Clough and traversed below the edge and Dovestone Quarry back th the car park.

Curbar Evening

I arrived late at Curbar Gap car park to find it unusually devoid of climbers, just a couple of young girls and a couple of middle aged mountain bikers. As I was about to write the evening off I had a phone call from Christine who was stuck in traffic in Sheffield but wanted to get at least one route in.  
Eventually she arrived and we headed for P.M.C.1 (HS 4a) which I lead. My lack of climbing fitness showed on the initial steep jamming cracks but I enjoyed the moves from the ledge as always. My stint on the belay was enlivened by the sight of the aforementioned young girls stripping off and posing on the boulders for an old guy with a camera.

PMC 1

I then led Owl's Arete (HS 4c) before dusk and the easterly breeze brought the midges out forcing an end to the nights climbing.

Rock at Last

Once again just Me and Jago turned up for the Llanberis meet and once again it was raining in the Pass. Things looked brighter out west so after a brief browse round the climbing shops we set of to Anglesey and Holyhead Mountain.

Approaching Holyhead Mountain

Both being less than match fit we decided to try a few VS's and Jago led Teaser, a slabby corner and then led Tension, a good climb pulling through small bulges on good holds. I then led Comfortably Numb a pleasant slab climb with a gritstone like finish on rounded holds.

Jago leading Teaser

On Sunday we again headed for Anglesey this time to climb Imitator on Gogarth. This is a two pitch VS which takes the line of the shadow on the first buttress in the picture then breaks left and up to the top of the buttress.

Jago led off up an awkward groove before pulling onto the slab and trending rightwards on good holds to a belay. The second pitch crossed a nice slabby wall then finished over doubtful blocks by delicate moves to a scramble to the top.

Langdale Weekend

Foul weather on the Friday night of the the proposed Duddondale camping meet caused Jago and me to  divert to hut accommodation in Langdale.
On Saturday the bad weather continued so we opted for a relatively low level walk doing Caw and Stickle Pike near Torver. We managed the summit of Caw in relatively dry conditions but then the weater turned and we completed the walk in the wet. Despite a couple of wrong turns, never lost just mislaid, we managed the round.

On Sunday the weather was slightly better so once again we did a couple of low hills, this time Blea rigg and Silver Howe near Grasmere. The weather improved slowly through the day and we were able to enjoy some views.

Stanage Popular End

Back in the comfort zone of Stanage Popular End Mick began the night by leading Central Trinity (VS 4c). Nidal followed and after a quick warm up on the bottom half of Via Media (VS 4c) I followed as third man.
When Paul and Christine arrived Paul led Hargreaves Original (VS 4c) on Black Slab and Christine and I followed. 

Christine starting Black Slab

   Meanwhile Mick and Nidal climbed Christmas Crack (HS). Paul also led Christmas Crack with Christine following and finally Christine led Right Hand Trinity (S).

Paul leading Christmas Crack.

Secret Stanage Evening Meet

I arrived at the crag to find Mick retreating from Parallel cracks a steep but well protected VS 4b. This was the start of several set backs on the night. Jago then led the climb and Mick followed without too much difficulty.

Jago leading Parallel Cracks.

The action then transferred to Titanic Buttress where Mick attempted Lusitania (S) but had to retreat again. Christine took over the lead and after some to-ing and fro-ing managed lead it.

Christine starting the crucial section of Lusitania.

Mean while Nidal's attempt on Titanic (VS 4c) fizzled out at the first difficulties. As I left Jago and Nidal had stripped the route and joined the queue to second Lusitania.

Nidal's high point on Titanic.

Stanage Evening Meet

Jago, Mick, Nidal Christine and Paul gathered at a breezy and chilly Stanage Popular End on Tuesday evening. Several old favourites were climbed, Jago led Heather Wall, and Gargoyle Buttress.

Mick following on Heather Wall

Mick following Gargoyle Buttress in the gathering gloom

Mick led Manchester Buttress. Nidal led Crack and Corner, Sociology and Castle crack with Christine seconding. Paul looked on and cast an ethical and no doubt critical eye over the proceedings.

Easter Round-up

Jago spent Easter in Wales at Cwm Glas with fellow CC members Andy and Astrid.
On Friday he and Andy escaped the rainy Llanberis Pass and climbed Creag Dhu Wall (HS) and Mensor (VS)at Tremadoc. On Saturday while Andy took over the baby sitting duties Jago and Astrid headed for Tremadoc again and climbed Oberon (S) and Merlin (VS).
Christine and Nick headed for the sunshine in Spain and climbed on Font d'Axia and Montessa in between Mountain Biking, Birding and walking

Font d'Axia

Montessa

On Font d'Axia they completed five routes of grade 4 to 5 While on Montessa they completed a full Ganley at 4+ to 5+.

NZ Sailing Trip

The following was submitted by Rob in New Zealand
In March 2012, the summer veg having been brought to a sudden and premature end by a massive hailstorm, and the goats no longer needing daily milking, Jan and I took our boat to Lake Te Anau.  A lake it may be but at about 60km long, with fiords branching off to the west for about 25km, there's plenty of room.  The fiords are almost the mirror image of the coastal fiords of Fiordland, though not on the same scale.

After a dreadful summer in which very little was done by anyone in the mountains, we were very lucky and hit the first good spell of weather of the year, enjoying a week of sunshine.  The down side was that
there was very little wind for sailing, gentle wafting along on the anabatic winds being the best we could do.  We usually tied up for the night where rivers drained into the fiords, and the main excitement of the trip lay in avoiding trees which had been washed down by the river and lodged on the lake bed near its mouth.  Having fortunately  seen the 'African Queen' in my youth, I knew to hop in the water when the obstructions
became to numerous, and wiggle our boat through them to find a tie-up spot.

A stressful Moment

Washing Day

It was the time of the stag roar, and hunters were out in some numbers chasing them, so I wasn't inclined to venture far inland.  The bush is impressive and appears very healthy, but we found it distressing how little bird song there was to hear.  Captain Cook apparently reported the birdsong to be deafening in Fiordland when he was there, but rats, stoats, cats and ferrets have taken a huge toll, as the native birds have no defences against them.

We were on the lake for a week, but there are a couple more weeks' exploring to be done there, at the speed which we operate.

Rob

Rivelin Evening Meet

The midweek meets season started at Rivelin Edge where Paul, Jago, Mick and Nidal gathered. Nidal hadn't quite got into the swing of outdoor climbing as he turned up with only his climbing wall gear.
Jago began by leading Face Climb No. 2 (HS 4c) and took the first fall of the season before completing the climb.

Mick following Face Route 2.

 Mick led Davids Chimney (VD) and Paul led Spiral Route (VS 4c) on the pinnacle to finish the evening.

Langdale

Up to Langdale with Paul, Colin and Bev, Paul was recovering from his hip operation and I was still waiting for my knee op so short walks were the order of the day. On Saturday with mist shrouding the higher fells we decided on Lingmoor via Side Pike the summit of which could be reached by a scramble. We set out from the cattle grid at the top of the Blea Tarn road and ascended by a series of scrambles which took us right to the top of the Pike

We carried on the easy ridge to Lingmoor and descended directly to the road to finish with a walk round Blea Tarn.

On Sunday we drove over to Little Langdale and climbed Holm Fell in warm sunshine the only disappointment being that our intended scramble was closed due to bird restrictions.   

 

Haweswater scramble & Fairfield round 23&24th March

A short trip to the Lakes with High pressure in charge! A last minute decision saw us stopping at Beetham cottage in Patterdale for a couple of nights.
Friday was fine and sunny with the occasional haze throughout the day. Our objective was to drive to the car park at the end of Haweswater and head up to Blea tarn where a scramble leads from the lake onto the summit ridge of High St.

A pleasant walk up the valley leads into Blea Water Combe where we saw our first Wheatears of the year.

The scramble is Blea Water crag gill grade 2** we omitted the 2nd pitch which would have been very wet and greasy but everything else was passable.

Overall it is a worthwhile outing lots of scrambling in the gill and its subsidiary overflows.

At the top of the Gill there is a short rocky ridge section to finish off the route. A further 20mins or so took us to the summit of High St and lunch.
Our next objective was a descent of Long stile ridge which overlooks Riggindale, which is famous for holding the only English Golden Eagle!
After plenty of stopping and scanning of the valley we were fortunate to disturb the Eagle from a rocky outcrop which gave us fantastic views down to less than 50m as it flew out into the valley.

Once back in the valley we had afternoon coffee in the Haweswater Hotel.

Day 2 took us round to Grasmere, we had decided on a route onto Fairfield via Stone Arthur and Great Rigg

Fantastic weather and views to match.
From Fairfield we dropped down to Grisedale Tarn and decided to include Seat Sandal as our final summit.

A steady ridge decent took us back to the A591 to finish another cracking weekend.