NZ Ski Trip

All hope had almost been lost for the ski season, with every NZ field scratching about to put a few flakes together, when in late July the first of three big storms arrived, depositing a metre of snow on the eastern hills of the South Island.  This was followed at intervals of a week by two almost identical storms.  These produced happy skiers, and nervous residents in the Canterbury plains, due to flood risk.  So three times in three weeks we enjoyed watching a branch of the Te Moana river running down the road past our house.

So having done the requisite amount of digging to help get our club skifield going, and finally got our ski legs, Joan and I headed up and away from the tows last Thursday to ski Fox Peak.  We skinned up the north ridge, going well until near the top of a shoulder, where powder over an icy crust necessitated carrying the skis and kicking steps for a while.  Then on and up to the summit without further problems, unless you count fatigue.  The run down was great:  we abandoned the ridge for a deep powder gully, and down into the North Basin, which I had never previously seen as full of snow.  Then on and back to rejoin the skifield. 

The quantity of snow about should be good for a few ski touring trips before the season ends. 

Rob
26/8/2012

Froggat

Paul and me decided to climb on Froggat and Jen came along to see what it was all about. The forecast was for heavy showers but the sun was shining as we hauled up by Joe's Slab. I decided to lead Trapeze Direct (VS 5a) which was bit of a one move wonder albeit taxing for the ageing climber.

Paul then led Sickle buttress direct (VS 4c) which has some nice steep wall climbing.

Paul leading Sickle buttress Direct

A walk along the edge past a group of climbers below Todys Wall  took us to Sunset Crack which I led. While I was belaying the air ambulance circled round us and landed on the moor behind the crag. It transpired that a climber had fallen from high up one of the harder climbs near Tody's Wall and decked out.
Paul then led Hawks Nest Crack (VS 4c) a route I hadn't done for many years and which gives some typical gritstone thrutching leading to a fine open finish on rough rock.
Finally I led North climb (S4a) which was more pleasant than it looked.

North Climb

Dovestone Edge

It was the usual (for this summer) rainy Sunday so Colin, Bev, Jen and I had a walk over Dovestone Edge in the Chew Valley. This was an area I hadn't visited for a year or two and there had been some changes. The RSPB had taken over the management of the area including the car park by the sailing club and parking was free for members.
We set off up the service road to the reservoir dam high on the moor then walked back along the edge. Between the rain and hail showers we managed some good views over the valley and towards Wimberry, Aldermans Head and Manchester.

We dropped down after crossing Dovestone Clough and traversed below the edge and Dovestone Quarry back th the car park.

Curbar Evening

I arrived late at Curbar Gap car park to find it unusually devoid of climbers, just a couple of young girls and a couple of middle aged mountain bikers. As I was about to write the evening off I had a phone call from Christine who was stuck in traffic in Sheffield but wanted to get at least one route in.  
Eventually she arrived and we headed for P.M.C.1 (HS 4a) which I lead. My lack of climbing fitness showed on the initial steep jamming cracks but I enjoyed the moves from the ledge as always. My stint on the belay was enlivened by the sight of the aforementioned young girls stripping off and posing on the boulders for an old guy with a camera.

PMC 1

I then led Owl's Arete (HS 4c) before dusk and the easterly breeze brought the midges out forcing an end to the nights climbing.

Rock at Last

Once again just Me and Jago turned up for the Llanberis meet and once again it was raining in the Pass. Things looked brighter out west so after a brief browse round the climbing shops we set of to Anglesey and Holyhead Mountain.

Approaching Holyhead Mountain

Both being less than match fit we decided to try a few VS's and Jago led Teaser, a slabby corner and then led Tension, a good climb pulling through small bulges on good holds. I then led Comfortably Numb a pleasant slab climb with a gritstone like finish on rounded holds.

Jago leading Teaser

On Sunday we again headed for Anglesey this time to climb Imitator on Gogarth. This is a two pitch VS which takes the line of the shadow on the first buttress in the picture then breaks left and up to the top of the buttress.

Jago led off up an awkward groove before pulling onto the slab and trending rightwards on good holds to a belay. The second pitch crossed a nice slabby wall then finished over doubtful blocks by delicate moves to a scramble to the top.

Langdale Weekend

Foul weather on the Friday night of the the proposed Duddondale camping meet caused Jago and me to  divert to hut accommodation in Langdale.
On Saturday the bad weather continued so we opted for a relatively low level walk doing Caw and Stickle Pike near Torver. We managed the summit of Caw in relatively dry conditions but then the weater turned and we completed the walk in the wet. Despite a couple of wrong turns, never lost just mislaid, we managed the round.

On Sunday the weather was slightly better so once again we did a couple of low hills, this time Blea rigg and Silver Howe near Grasmere. The weather improved slowly through the day and we were able to enjoy some views.

Stanage Popular End

Back in the comfort zone of Stanage Popular End Mick began the night by leading Central Trinity (VS 4c). Nidal followed and after a quick warm up on the bottom half of Via Media (VS 4c) I followed as third man.
When Paul and Christine arrived Paul led Hargreaves Original (VS 4c) on Black Slab and Christine and I followed. 

Christine starting Black Slab

   Meanwhile Mick and Nidal climbed Christmas Crack (HS). Paul also led Christmas Crack with Christine following and finally Christine led Right Hand Trinity (S).

Paul leading Christmas Crack.

Secret Stanage Evening Meet

I arrived at the crag to find Mick retreating from Parallel cracks a steep but well protected VS 4b. This was the start of several set backs on the night. Jago then led the climb and Mick followed without too much difficulty.

Jago leading Parallel Cracks.

The action then transferred to Titanic Buttress where Mick attempted Lusitania (S) but had to retreat again. Christine took over the lead and after some to-ing and fro-ing managed lead it.

Christine starting the crucial section of Lusitania.

Mean while Nidal's attempt on Titanic (VS 4c) fizzled out at the first difficulties. As I left Jago and Nidal had stripped the route and joined the queue to second Lusitania.

Nidal's high point on Titanic.

Stanage Evening Meet

Jago, Mick, Nidal Christine and Paul gathered at a breezy and chilly Stanage Popular End on Tuesday evening. Several old favourites were climbed, Jago led Heather Wall, and Gargoyle Buttress.

Mick following on Heather Wall

Mick following Gargoyle Buttress in the gathering gloom

Mick led Manchester Buttress. Nidal led Crack and Corner, Sociology and Castle crack with Christine seconding. Paul looked on and cast an ethical and no doubt critical eye over the proceedings.

Easter Round-up

Jago spent Easter in Wales at Cwm Glas with fellow CC members Andy and Astrid.
On Friday he and Andy escaped the rainy Llanberis Pass and climbed Creag Dhu Wall (HS) and Mensor (VS)at Tremadoc. On Saturday while Andy took over the baby sitting duties Jago and Astrid headed for Tremadoc again and climbed Oberon (S) and Merlin (VS).
Christine and Nick headed for the sunshine in Spain and climbed on Font d'Axia and Montessa in between Mountain Biking, Birding and walking

Font d'Axia

Montessa

On Font d'Axia they completed five routes of grade 4 to 5 While on Montessa they completed a full Ganley at 4+ to 5+.