On the morning of 7th December, Rob Hill and Joan O'Donnell drove along the eastern shore of Lake Tekapo, past Mt. Gerald homestead, through a few warm-up streams, and were confronted by a notice warning us of the many mishaps that could befall us if we proceeded to cross the Macauley River, and also how far away the vehicle recovery service was. But we'd had a dry spell, and most of the winter's snow had
already melted from the Two Thumbs range, and we had no problems. We bumped along the northern edge of the Macauley river bed, the scene of some involuntary digging by myself and Jago some years ago, and parked considerately opposite North-East Gorge stream.
We were trying Mt. Paris, 2,178m. So we recrossed the Macauley on foot and headed up the gorge stream. We were forced out of the stream bed as the gorge began, and continued sidling high. We found a good camp site at the start of our ridge.

Next morning we headed up tussock slopes to gain the rocky crest of the ridge, which was 4km long, and an exercise in route-finding as much as anything. Round most pinnacles, over others, and some head-scratching for yet others saw us at the summit 8 hours later, in a wonderfully cooling southerly breeze.

A very long scree descent took us back near the campsite rather earlier than we expected, and we had no trouble eventually regaining tarmac and civilisation next day.
Unfortunately a trip with Shane, following on from this one to try the Nun's Veil, didn't happen due to Nor'Westers. Shame.

May I wish everyone in the Arete a very happy Christmas.

Rob

A Taste of Winter

Having missed the Arete Patterdale Meet and reflecting on my lack of fitness I decide to have a weekend at the FRCC hut in Patterdale and do some hill walking in the area. On hearing my plans Colin and Bev decided to come up on Saturday night to join me on Sundays walk.
I set out on Saturday for Place Fell by the Bordale Hause route, the clouds clearing ocasionally to give sunlit views over Patterdale.

The ascent was straightforward following good paths up to the summit which was shrouded in mist. I carried on to High Dodd which appeared to be little visited although only a few yards from the main descent path. I doubled back to Place Fell this time by Mortar Crag and continued back to Boredale Hause.
The mists cleared sufficient to make sense of the proliferation of paths at the hause and I headed for Beda Head. Beda Head lies at the end of the long ridge of Beda Fell between Boredale and Bannerdale and the ascent was notable only because of sighting a couple of red deer on the way.
On Sunday the air was decidedly colder and a sprinkling of fresh snow covered the high tops as once again I set out for Boredale Hause, this time with Colin and Bev for company.

Our first objective was Angletarn Pikes which was again shrouded in mist. This hill has twin summits, knobbly mounds separated by boggy ground. We visited both and using the GPS ascertained that the larger cairn is on the lower of the two summits.
We descended to Angle Tarn in light snowfall and had a quick coffee then headed for Brock Crags.

Checking the route from Brock Crags summit

The rest of the route entailed navigating through mist and snow over Rest Dodd to The Knott. With modern day GPS you are never really lost but we still took some satisfaction from finding our way with the map and compass.

Knott Summit

As we descended to Hartsop via Hayeswater the snow turned to rain but we were well satisfied with a good days walking.



Soft morning light was slowly illuminating Knoydart as I quietly latched the bothy door, leaving Clive and our London companions sleeping peacefully. It had rained all night, but I was hopeful that the conditions would improve as I set off to walk around the shoreline marked on the map. Within a few moments I realised my mistake. It was high tide and the only route across to the river Carnach’s boggy estuary involved clambering over the slippery hillside behind the bothy.

By the time I reached the dilapidated footbridge at Carnoch I’d warmed up nicely, and I was cheered by the fact that the sky was clearing and the rain had eased to light drizzle. I felt certain that if I kept a brisk pace I’d be able to enjoy stunning Knoydart summit views.

My faith in the weather gods proved to be greatly misplaced. Within half an hour it was raining heavier than ever. By the time I reached Meall Buidhe’s summit at 11.30hrs I was being battered by hail and strong winds. I continued in these conditions to my second objective the summit of Luinne Bheinn. I reached this at 2pm and was rewarded by catching a few fleeting views of the grandeur of my surroundings.

Despite the classic Monroing conditions I felt a deep pang of regret as I began to plot a route down the challenging descent to the river valley again. The day’s weather had been as grim as look on Clive’s face as he watched the Londoners sheepishly leave the bothy in my absence, but the sheer joy of travelling freely amongst such rugged, wild, and remote countryside had brightened my sole.

Knoydart Bothy trip

Jago suggested a bothy trip to Scotland and I readily agreed with the intention of adding to my Corbett list. Unfortunately his target Munros were in Knoydart, the wettest part of Scotland and his days off were booked for October.
Sure enough when we rolled up at the roadhead at Strathan it was raining steadily. We set off up Glen Dessary bound for Sourlies, a bothy on the shore of Loch Nevis. All went well until we came to the stream flowing from Coire nan Uth. The waters were crashing over the boulders with such a force the stream proved impassable. We dumped the sacks and wandered upstream to find a better crossing place but to no avail.


Looking for a crossing place



There was nothing for it but to shoulder the sacks again and walk up into the corrie, after 200 metres of height gain we found a crossing place and dropped back down to the path. The terrain then took on the wild Knoydart character with the path twisting over or around rocky knobbles, bogs and lochans.      

 





Darkness fell as we descended from the pass at 300 metres to the sea shore and eventually the bothy. Two lads from London had arrived before us and were already in their sleeping bags so after a short conversation we made our dinner and turned in.

Next morning Jago made an early start for Meall Buidhe and Luinne Bheinn while I lay in my bag deciding whether to bother going out in the rain. The two boys from London stirred and began talking to each other. I was hidden away behind a partition and listened on as their coversation turned to disparaging remarks about me and Jago and Barnsley people in general. When one of them suggested taking our sleeping bags I announced my presence with a firm 'good morning' and they fell silent. They arose so I quickly got dressed and sat where I could see all our gear and watched their every move as they quietly packed and left without breakfast or a word of farewell.

Sourlies is in a magnificent setting on the shores of a sea loch and  surrounded by rugged mountains. I spent a pleasant day beachcombing and watching the wild life and trying, without success, to kill the bothy mouse until Jago returned having bagged his two hills.

 

Sourlies Bothy

Next day the water levels had fallen and we walked out without incident two and a half hours faster than the walk in. 

Looking back to Loch Nevis. Sourlies is on the little grass strip on the right.

 

Borrowdale

The October meet was based at the CC hut at Grange with Jago and me in attendance.
Saturday was bright but with a NE wind with a cold edge to it so we looked for a SW facing crag and settled on Goats Crag near Watendlath.
 A short steep slog through fields took us past the lower crag, which looked uninviting in the shade to the upper crag which was just catching the sun.


The upper crag.

The upper crag holds some short but pleasant climbs mainly in the HVS/E1 range and has a very pleasant situation with good views over the fells.

I led Poland (VS 4b) for a warm up. The route climbed a short slab to the sunlit overhang in the picture and traversed underneath the overhang to another slab which led pleasantly to the top.

Jago then led Emma Line (HVS 5a) which broke out of a severe corner to gain the sharp sunlit arete in the picture by some thin moves.

I led the next route Inner Limits (HVS 5a) which took the steep front wall to break out onto another pleasant slab.

Finish to Inner Limits

We then decided to walk across to Reecastle Crag but by the time that we had negotiated our way across the pathless loose slopes, through boulders and trees and found the crag looking less than inviting we decided to call it a day.

Sunday was warmer and we decided on Bowderstone Crag. This crag is home to Hells Wall which has a number of routes in the high E grades. Our objective was more modest one pitch VS called Wodens Crack. This takes a line round the left arete of Hells Wall starting over large blocks to a steep corner which gave a few testing moves.

Jago starting out on Wodens Crack

    

   

Cosmic Buttress

Paul and me arrived at Cosmic Buttress on Stanage in unseasonably warm sunshine. This buttress is fairly short but bristles with overhangs. 

Cosmic Buttress

We warmed up on X-Ray a tough hard severe which avoided the worst of the overhangs but still gave food for thought with tricky moves up a thin crack.
Paul then tackled Electron (VS 5a) which went easily up to crux moves through overhangs. After several attemps to surmount the final cux overhang he admitted defeat being unable to get his hands in the the crucial hand jam. 

Paul on Electron

I climbed up on Pauls gear and after some to-ing and fro-ing managed to get the jam with my smaller hands and pull through the roof.
Paul then led Cosmic Crack a meaty VS 4c with a barn door move through the final roof.
A combination of the warm sun and the shinanegans on Electron sapped our energy so we called it a day with not quite a half ganley in the bag.
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September Helyg Meet

On reaching Helyg we, that is Jago and me, found that repairs were ongoing and no water was available at the hut. Once again we had to divert to Ynys Ettws in Llanberis.
On Saturday the forcast was for light showers passing through so maintaining the spirit of the meet we decided to climb in Ogwen. We decided on Kirkus' Route (VS 5a) on Craig Lloer to escape the crowds and sure enough after one and a half hours steady walk we found ourselves at the bottom of a deserted crag.



Craig Lloer

Jago set off on the first pitch undetered by a few light spots of rain. I followed and eyed up the next, crucial, pitch which was an off width chimney crack. Armed with all our large cams I set off and soon reached the chimney crack and placed a couple of the bigger cams. I ignored the increasing spots of rain placing great faith in the weather forecast that it would blow over. The pitch succumbed to a variety of traditional techniques until the final steep moves to a large jug. I realised that it was now raining steadily but had no option but to carry on. Placing my largest cam I gripped a small but sharp finger hold and shuffled up a couple of moves to try to reach the jug, I made the mistake of looking down and saw my last cam wobbling about in the crack. I tried a few more placements but none were good so nothing for it but to reverse down the pitch and retrieve a bigger cam to protect the final moves. This I did and finally emerged onto a soaking belay ledge.






In the crack.....



.....in the rain.

Jago followed and we completed the last couple of pitches in the rain and found the descent gully which provided some excitement in the greasy conditions.

The rain continued until Sunday so we headed home via a couple of gear shops.

   







Pic de Tristaina - Andorran Pyrenees

Last weekend, Carolina and I met up with Pete Bell and made an ascent of Pic de Tristaina in the Pyrenees. The 2878m summit lies exactly on the border between Andorra and France, although we made our ascent from the Andorran side.

The peak is at the head of a cirque of mountains that surround the Tristaina lakes. This is a very pretty valley and holds some interesting wildlife including marmots, vultures and alpine choughs.

Our route took us through the valley until we reached the headwall where we ascended a steep scree gully. This placed us on a ridge (similar in nature to Striding Edge) which we followed before making the final scramble up onto the summit.

The weather had been fairly wet and claggy for most of the day which limited visibility. However, as we approached the summit we broke through the clouds and were fortunate to enjoy great views, both down into France and Andorra.

We returned home on the Sunday and visited El Aventador crag near Xativa on Tuesday where we did a couple of routes in the sun. Hoping for an active autumn now as this summer has been far too hot to do anything really energetic. Some days reached over 40 degrees which makes anything feel like hard work!

Rivelin Evening Meet.

Paul and me were first to arrive to take advantage of the fine late summers evening. We started with an old favourite Croton Oil (HVS 5a) on the needle. This is one of the best HVS routes in the peak with some nice moves in exposed situations and a finish on a proper summit.

 Paul leading Croton Oil

Christine arrived as we completed the abseil from the needle. I then led Face Climb No.2 (VS 4c) this is basically unprotected but I popped a side runner in Jelly Baby to protect the moves onto the sandy top ledges.

Paul then led Blizzard Ridge (HVS 5a) another three star HVS with spaced protection and airy moves.

 Paul high on Blizzard Ridge.

Christine following Blizzard ridge as dusk falls.

We left well satisfied that we had made the best of the short evening. 

Borrowdale Meet

Despite an indifferent weather forecast Colin, Bev, Jago and me attended this meet and opted to climb at Shepherds Crag on Saturday. I set off on the first pitch of Adam (VS 5a) which started with a steep wet groove. The difficulties however were short lived and easy ground led to a belay. Jago led the second pitch which was steep and varied with good holds and protection.
Colin and Bev did Desperation (Severe) which gave some good climbing in its lower pitch but had a scrappy finish.
Following Adam Jago led Derision Grooves (VS) which followed grooves to a traverse on good holds to the Belvedere. This gave good steady climbing though the crux is surmounding some loose flakes. The top of the route has suffered a rock fall but the route is unaffected just the capping overhanging flakes have disappeared.
Colin and Bev meanwhile did Crescendo (HS) which again gave some good climbing.
On Sunday Jago led Aberration (VS) on Quayfoot Buttress with Colin and Bev following.

Jago on Aberration

     Bev following Aberration.

Backyard ski touring

On 10th August, myself and Joan O'Donnell left the eastern shore of Lake Tekapo (NZ) and headed up the hill towards the Two Thumbs range. Sadly, a vigorous Nor'Wester a few days earlier had lifted the snow line, and we had a few hours' walk before we could don skis and skins. We reached the Rex Simpson hut at dusk. This is owned by a guiding company, but situated on conservation land, and so may be used by the public. Next morning dawned clear, and we skinned up Camp stream towards Stag Saddle, about 8km. away.

The Two Thumbs isn't glaciated, and it's possible to find easy-angled routes to most places. This was no small consideration following the NW storm, as there had been plenty of recent avalanche activity. We were on rain-crust to start with, but the snow improved to nothing short of sublime as we gained height. The run back down to the hut was most enjoyable.

We awoke to clag next day, and skinned to an old musterers' hut, Camp Stream hut. This was as rough as the Rex Simpson was posh, but much cheaper. Well, free. The clag cleared by lunchtime, and we headed 3km up a leading ridge towards Pyramid Peak. The run down was careful, rather than whooping, again on a rain crust. Most of the evening was fully occupied trying to split logs into pieces small enough to fit in the tiny firebox of the ancient stove, using ice-axe and knife. We headed down next day, having seen noone else in the four days.

Castle Naze

On Sunday Paul and me decided to renew our aquaintance with Castle Naze; not having climbed there for a good many years. The crag is in a quiet corner of the western peak and has a scenic outlook over meadows and moorland but was surprisingly popular with numerous parties on the routes when we arrived.

Crowd scene at Castle Naze

I started off by leading Keep Arete (VS 4b) which I found testing at the grade but good climbing. Paul followed up with a lead of Pilgrims Progress (S 4a) which again we found stiff for the grade. Both climbs succumbed to a determined approach.

I then led Scoop Face (HVS 5a) which had a tricky start leading to a runner at half way which consisted of a size 3 friend rattling about in a size 4 hole. This made for a nervy finish up a steep wall.

   

Clive on Scoop Face

Paul then led Nozag a 3 star VS 4c which again was hard for the grade but as usual Paul managed to get plenty of protection even on the so called bold face. I then led The Crack (VS 4b) before we called it a day.

Neither of us could quite remember our last visits in the distant past so unusually for the Peak the climbing seemed new and more interesting, definitely worth the ride out.

Thurgoland Boundary Walk

After the Penistone Boundary walk me and Jen decided to try the Thurgoland Boundary Walk. We were joined by Colin and Bev who were still training for their Kilimanjaro trip.
The walk started at the Bridge Inn at the bottom of Thurgoland and after a mile or so of road followed the bank of the river Don to the Romticle Viaduct then through fields, one containing a large bull, to Cheesebottom Farm. More riverside and woods led to Oxspring and up the road to the top of Coates Lane.
From there Blacker Green Lane took us to the Dove Valley Trail and Silkstone Common where we visited the Huskar pit disaster memorial.

Coiln and Bev at the Huskar memorial.

The walk continued over fields and through woods to Partridge Dale and Eastfield to the Monkey where we enjoyed a drink and a chat to the eccentric but friendly landlord Anthony while it poured outside.

More footpaths across fields led to Crane Moor then over the hill and back down to the Bridge Inn.

Leaving the Monkey.....

...and heading to Crane Moor.

The walk goes through some varied scenery, much of it delightful, with river, woods and open fields but is quite arduous with plenty of ups and downs. There are three pubs on the route so plenty of opportunity for refreshments.

Evening Meet - High Neb

Me and Jago were the first arrivals followed shortly(?) by Mick. I led Tango Buttress (HS 5a) and Jago and Mick followed, Mick avoiding the crux start by judicious use of the adjacent crack. Meanwhile Paul arrived and followed me on High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) while Jago led Mick up Inaccessible Crack (VS 4c).

Jago leading Inaccessible Crack

Christine then arrived just in time to second High Neb Buttress.

Christine on High Neb Buttress

We then moved on to Inacessible Crack which I led while Jago and Mick climbed twisting crack.
I then led Norse Corner Climb which Christine followed. Jago and Mick were still on High Neb Buttress when we left as dusk fell. 
Despite a cold wind and a lack of form we all enjoyed an evenings climbing on some good quality routes.

Curbar Evening Meet

Once again the crag was almost deserted with one team leaving as me, Christine and Mick arrived. A stiff breeze ensured a midge free evening and we started off with Bel ami (VS 4b) as a warm up.

Christine following on Bel Ami.

This proved to be a bit stiffer than we all remembered but succumbed to a determined approach.

No evening meet on Curbar would be the same without doing PMC1 (HS 4a) a classic at the grade.

Clive leading PMC1....

....and Mick following.

By this time the stiff breeze had turned into a strong wind which was too cold for comfort at the top of the crag so we finished off with a quick ascent of Owl's Arete ( HS 4c).

Penistone Boundary Walk

I joined Colin and Bev and other participents of their Kilimanjaro trip on a training walk round the Penistone boundary.
We all met up at Cubley Hall, the start and finish of the 16 mile walk. Cubley Hall is situated on the outskirts of the town so straight away we were into the countryside. Apart from a short stretch of urban road walking through Springvale the rest of the walk is on minor roads, country lanes and footpaths.

 Leaving town......

....into the countryside.

Being around Penistone the walk has plenty of ups and downs but is never too arduous. It skirts round between Silkstone and Thurgoland to Gunthwaite dam, back up to Scout Dyke then over to the viewpoint at Royd Moor, then through Bullhouse and up to Hartcliff Hill before dropping back down to Cubley Hall.

  Route finding difficulties at Gadding Moor

The walk goes through a varied landscape from woodlands and arable fields to moorland edge pastures and finishes at a pub which sells real ale. What more can you ask from a walk?

Froggat Evening Meet

 Froggat Edge was unusually free from climbers when Me, Jago and Christine arrived.
Jago took the first lead on Sickle Buttress Direct (VS 4c) which went easily up a steep wall to a thin finishing move.

Sickle Buttres Direct

Clive then led Trapeze Direct (VS 5a) which is a well protected one move wonder but the move proved to be quite difficult for an aging body.

 The crux of Trapeze Direct

With dusk approaching we decided on a quick ascent of Diamond Crack (HS 4b) to close out the evening. 

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Clive leading Diamond Crack

 This route gave well protected but steep climb up jamming cracks and finished off an enjoyable evening climbing routes that I had neglected for quite a few years.