Soft morning light was slowly illuminating Knoydart as I quietly latched the bothy door, leaving Clive and our London companions sleeping peacefully. It had rained all night, but I was hopeful that the conditions would improve as I set off to walk around the shoreline marked on the map. Within a few moments I realised my mistake. It was high tide and the only route across to the river Carnach’s boggy estuary involved clambering over the slippery hillside behind the bothy.

By the time I reached the dilapidated footbridge at Carnoch I’d warmed up nicely, and I was cheered by the fact that the sky was clearing and the rain had eased to light drizzle. I felt certain that if I kept a brisk pace I’d be able to enjoy stunning Knoydart summit views.

My faith in the weather gods proved to be greatly misplaced. Within half an hour it was raining heavier than ever. By the time I reached Meall Buidhe’s summit at 11.30hrs I was being battered by hail and strong winds. I continued in these conditions to my second objective the summit of Luinne Bheinn. I reached this at 2pm and was rewarded by catching a few fleeting views of the grandeur of my surroundings.

Despite the classic Monroing conditions I felt a deep pang of regret as I began to plot a route down the challenging descent to the river valley again. The day’s weather had been as grim as look on Clive’s face as he watched the Londoners sheepishly leave the bothy in my absence, but the sheer joy of travelling freely amongst such rugged, wild, and remote countryside had brightened my sole.