Borrowdale

The October meet was based at the CC hut at Grange with Jago and me in attendance.
Saturday was bright but with a NE wind with a cold edge to it so we looked for a SW facing crag and settled on Goats Crag near Watendlath.
 A short steep slog through fields took us past the lower crag, which looked uninviting in the shade to the upper crag which was just catching the sun.


The upper crag.

The upper crag holds some short but pleasant climbs mainly in the HVS/E1 range and has a very pleasant situation with good views over the fells.

I led Poland (VS 4b) for a warm up. The route climbed a short slab to the sunlit overhang in the picture and traversed underneath the overhang to another slab which led pleasantly to the top.

Jago then led Emma Line (HVS 5a) which broke out of a severe corner to gain the sharp sunlit arete in the picture by some thin moves.

I led the next route Inner Limits (HVS 5a) which took the steep front wall to break out onto another pleasant slab.

Finish to Inner Limits

We then decided to walk across to Reecastle Crag but by the time that we had negotiated our way across the pathless loose slopes, through boulders and trees and found the crag looking less than inviting we decided to call it a day.

Sunday was warmer and we decided on Bowderstone Crag. This crag is home to Hells Wall which has a number of routes in the high E grades. Our objective was more modest one pitch VS called Wodens Crack. This takes a line round the left arete of Hells Wall starting over large blocks to a steep corner which gave a few testing moves.

Jago starting out on Wodens Crack

    

   

Cosmic Buttress

Paul and me arrived at Cosmic Buttress on Stanage in unseasonably warm sunshine. This buttress is fairly short but bristles with overhangs. 

Cosmic Buttress

We warmed up on X-Ray a tough hard severe which avoided the worst of the overhangs but still gave food for thought with tricky moves up a thin crack.
Paul then tackled Electron (VS 5a) which went easily up to crux moves through overhangs. After several attemps to surmount the final cux overhang he admitted defeat being unable to get his hands in the the crucial hand jam. 

Paul on Electron

I climbed up on Pauls gear and after some to-ing and fro-ing managed to get the jam with my smaller hands and pull through the roof.
Paul then led Cosmic Crack a meaty VS 4c with a barn door move through the final roof.
A combination of the warm sun and the shinanegans on Electron sapped our energy so we called it a day with not quite a half ganley in the bag.
.

September Helyg Meet

On reaching Helyg we, that is Jago and me, found that repairs were ongoing and no water was available at the hut. Once again we had to divert to Ynys Ettws in Llanberis.
On Saturday the forcast was for light showers passing through so maintaining the spirit of the meet we decided to climb in Ogwen. We decided on Kirkus' Route (VS 5a) on Craig Lloer to escape the crowds and sure enough after one and a half hours steady walk we found ourselves at the bottom of a deserted crag.



Craig Lloer

Jago set off on the first pitch undetered by a few light spots of rain. I followed and eyed up the next, crucial, pitch which was an off width chimney crack. Armed with all our large cams I set off and soon reached the chimney crack and placed a couple of the bigger cams. I ignored the increasing spots of rain placing great faith in the weather forecast that it would blow over. The pitch succumbed to a variety of traditional techniques until the final steep moves to a large jug. I realised that it was now raining steadily but had no option but to carry on. Placing my largest cam I gripped a small but sharp finger hold and shuffled up a couple of moves to try to reach the jug, I made the mistake of looking down and saw my last cam wobbling about in the crack. I tried a few more placements but none were good so nothing for it but to reverse down the pitch and retrieve a bigger cam to protect the final moves. This I did and finally emerged onto a soaking belay ledge.






In the crack.....



.....in the rain.

Jago followed and we completed the last couple of pitches in the rain and found the descent gully which provided some excitement in the greasy conditions.

The rain continued until Sunday so we headed home via a couple of gear shops.

   







Pic de Tristaina - Andorran Pyrenees

Last weekend, Carolina and I met up with Pete Bell and made an ascent of Pic de Tristaina in the Pyrenees. The 2878m summit lies exactly on the border between Andorra and France, although we made our ascent from the Andorran side.

The peak is at the head of a cirque of mountains that surround the Tristaina lakes. This is a very pretty valley and holds some interesting wildlife including marmots, vultures and alpine choughs.

Our route took us through the valley until we reached the headwall where we ascended a steep scree gully. This placed us on a ridge (similar in nature to Striding Edge) which we followed before making the final scramble up onto the summit.

The weather had been fairly wet and claggy for most of the day which limited visibility. However, as we approached the summit we broke through the clouds and were fortunate to enjoy great views, both down into France and Andorra.

We returned home on the Sunday and visited El Aventador crag near Xativa on Tuesday where we did a couple of routes in the sun. Hoping for an active autumn now as this summer has been far too hot to do anything really energetic. Some days reached over 40 degrees which makes anything feel like hard work!

Rivelin Evening Meet.

Paul and me were first to arrive to take advantage of the fine late summers evening. We started with an old favourite Croton Oil (HVS 5a) on the needle. This is one of the best HVS routes in the peak with some nice moves in exposed situations and a finish on a proper summit.

 Paul leading Croton Oil

Christine arrived as we completed the abseil from the needle. I then led Face Climb No.2 (VS 4c) this is basically unprotected but I popped a side runner in Jelly Baby to protect the moves onto the sandy top ledges.

Paul then led Blizzard Ridge (HVS 5a) another three star HVS with spaced protection and airy moves.

 Paul high on Blizzard Ridge.

Christine following Blizzard ridge as dusk falls.

We left well satisfied that we had made the best of the short evening. 

Borrowdale Meet

Despite an indifferent weather forecast Colin, Bev, Jago and me attended this meet and opted to climb at Shepherds Crag on Saturday. I set off on the first pitch of Adam (VS 5a) which started with a steep wet groove. The difficulties however were short lived and easy ground led to a belay. Jago led the second pitch which was steep and varied with good holds and protection.
Colin and Bev did Desperation (Severe) which gave some good climbing in its lower pitch but had a scrappy finish.
Following Adam Jago led Derision Grooves (VS) which followed grooves to a traverse on good holds to the Belvedere. This gave good steady climbing though the crux is surmounding some loose flakes. The top of the route has suffered a rock fall but the route is unaffected just the capping overhanging flakes have disappeared.
Colin and Bev meanwhile did Crescendo (HS) which again gave some good climbing.
On Sunday Jago led Aberration (VS) on Quayfoot Buttress with Colin and Bev following.

Jago on Aberration

     Bev following Aberration.

Backyard ski touring

On 10th August, myself and Joan O'Donnell left the eastern shore of Lake Tekapo (NZ) and headed up the hill towards the Two Thumbs range. Sadly, a vigorous Nor'Wester a few days earlier had lifted the snow line, and we had a few hours' walk before we could don skis and skins. We reached the Rex Simpson hut at dusk. This is owned by a guiding company, but situated on conservation land, and so may be used by the public. Next morning dawned clear, and we skinned up Camp stream towards Stag Saddle, about 8km. away.

The Two Thumbs isn't glaciated, and it's possible to find easy-angled routes to most places. This was no small consideration following the NW storm, as there had been plenty of recent avalanche activity. We were on rain-crust to start with, but the snow improved to nothing short of sublime as we gained height. The run back down to the hut was most enjoyable.

We awoke to clag next day, and skinned to an old musterers' hut, Camp Stream hut. This was as rough as the Rex Simpson was posh, but much cheaper. Well, free. The clag cleared by lunchtime, and we headed 3km up a leading ridge towards Pyramid Peak. The run down was careful, rather than whooping, again on a rain crust. Most of the evening was fully occupied trying to split logs into pieces small enough to fit in the tiny firebox of the ancient stove, using ice-axe and knife. We headed down next day, having seen noone else in the four days.

Castle Naze

On Sunday Paul and me decided to renew our aquaintance with Castle Naze; not having climbed there for a good many years. The crag is in a quiet corner of the western peak and has a scenic outlook over meadows and moorland but was surprisingly popular with numerous parties on the routes when we arrived.

Crowd scene at Castle Naze

I started off by leading Keep Arete (VS 4b) which I found testing at the grade but good climbing. Paul followed up with a lead of Pilgrims Progress (S 4a) which again we found stiff for the grade. Both climbs succumbed to a determined approach.

I then led Scoop Face (HVS 5a) which had a tricky start leading to a runner at half way which consisted of a size 3 friend rattling about in a size 4 hole. This made for a nervy finish up a steep wall.

   

Clive on Scoop Face

Paul then led Nozag a 3 star VS 4c which again was hard for the grade but as usual Paul managed to get plenty of protection even on the so called bold face. I then led The Crack (VS 4b) before we called it a day.

Neither of us could quite remember our last visits in the distant past so unusually for the Peak the climbing seemed new and more interesting, definitely worth the ride out.

Thurgoland Boundary Walk

After the Penistone Boundary walk me and Jen decided to try the Thurgoland Boundary Walk. We were joined by Colin and Bev who were still training for their Kilimanjaro trip.
The walk started at the Bridge Inn at the bottom of Thurgoland and after a mile or so of road followed the bank of the river Don to the Romticle Viaduct then through fields, one containing a large bull, to Cheesebottom Farm. More riverside and woods led to Oxspring and up the road to the top of Coates Lane.
From there Blacker Green Lane took us to the Dove Valley Trail and Silkstone Common where we visited the Huskar pit disaster memorial.

Coiln and Bev at the Huskar memorial.

The walk continued over fields and through woods to Partridge Dale and Eastfield to the Monkey where we enjoyed a drink and a chat to the eccentric but friendly landlord Anthony while it poured outside.

More footpaths across fields led to Crane Moor then over the hill and back down to the Bridge Inn.

Leaving the Monkey.....

...and heading to Crane Moor.

The walk goes through some varied scenery, much of it delightful, with river, woods and open fields but is quite arduous with plenty of ups and downs. There are three pubs on the route so plenty of opportunity for refreshments.

Evening Meet - High Neb

Me and Jago were the first arrivals followed shortly(?) by Mick. I led Tango Buttress (HS 5a) and Jago and Mick followed, Mick avoiding the crux start by judicious use of the adjacent crack. Meanwhile Paul arrived and followed me on High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) while Jago led Mick up Inaccessible Crack (VS 4c).

Jago leading Inaccessible Crack

Christine then arrived just in time to second High Neb Buttress.

Christine on High Neb Buttress

We then moved on to Inacessible Crack which I led while Jago and Mick climbed twisting crack.
I then led Norse Corner Climb which Christine followed. Jago and Mick were still on High Neb Buttress when we left as dusk fell. 
Despite a cold wind and a lack of form we all enjoyed an evenings climbing on some good quality routes.