Crow Chin Evening Meet

Mick and Nidal were established on Kellys Eliminate (HS 4a) by the time Me and Jago arrived. A stiff breeze protected against the heat and the midges and several routes were ascended including Feathered Friends, Kellys Eliminate, Spring Sunshine and October Slab. Jago climbed Marmoset, a climb that always provides some entertainment for both climbers and watchers. Mick and Nidal bagged a full Ganley and as usual Christine arrived late but managed to lead a hybrid version of Kellys Eye before sundown.   

Nidal on Kellys Eliminate

Jago on Marmoset

 

 

Christine on Kellys Eye

Secret Stanage

Paul suggested Secret Stanage to avoid the crowds as it was a fine Sunday morning so we headed straight for Titanic Buttress where Paul led Titanic and I led Q.E.2 both being good VSs, Titanic being particularly good. Moving along Paul led Genesis (HVS 5a) on Magazine Buttress a thin crack line with small holds and some good moves.

Paul fixing gear on Genesis

By now it was getting hot and I decided to lead Central Buttress in the Enclosure area. After some attempts at the strenuous crux move on sweaty slopey holds I avoided it on the right and gained the upper slab. Paul followed the proper way with some difficulty and we decided that the heat was too much for grit so we ambled back to the car.

Pedraforca - Catalan Pyrenees

Carolina and I recently spent a weekend in the Pyrenees where we made the classic ascent of Pedraforca.

The name of this mountain translates as ‘Rock Fork’ as it has 2 distinct summits, separated by a col and steep scree gully. Our route took us to the highest of the twin peaks – Pollego Superior which stands at 2497 metres.

The route was strenuous from the start, with the first couple of hours spent climbing steep forests paths until we broke out of the tree line and gained a small col from where the views made all the sweating and toil worthwhile.

From the col, the route to the summit was a long scramble up the ridge. This part of the route was excellent – the scrambling essentially followed the crest of the ridge straight to the summit (grade 1-2). The final section just below the summit was quite exposed but straight forward. The views were spectacular. Whilst on the scramble, we were accompanied by a pair of Alpine Choughs and a Rock Bunting.

Having lingered on the summit long enough to decide that the typical pattern of sunny mornings and stormy afternoon may well prove to be the case, we headed for the col in between the twin peaks from where we made the long scree-run back down to the valley.

Birchens Evening Meet

Me and Jago arrived to find Mick and Nidal about to attempt Sail Buttress (HS4b). While Mick led that route I decided to lead Topsail (VS 4c). Still suffering with a chest infection my arms felt weak on the overhang but judicious use of knees saw me through and onto the top slab. While belaying Jago the first midges arrived and so did Dennis who assessed the midge threat and promptly vanished.
After soloing the 5a problem finish to Captains Bunk I arrived back at the bottom where the midges were becoming more voracious. I left Jago leading Nelsons Slab (HS5a) with the aid of 100% DEET and Mick seconding with a full head net, Nidal seemed to be unaffected by the little terrors.

 Jago getting established on Nelsons Slab

Nidal then led Porthole Direct and Mick led Camperdown Crawl (or should that be Campervan Crawl).

Eskdale Meet

Saturday seemed set for fine weather so the walk in to Esk Buttress was deemed worthwhile and proved to be a good choice. The walk in although quite long is steady and has some stunning views and the weather held with sunshine and a cool breeze.

There were a good few teams on the crag most of which were queueing for Bridges Route or Central Pillar. Paul and Jago elected for Black Sunday (HVS 5a) while Christine and Nick chose Bowers Route (HS) both of which were unoccupied. I was nursing a chest infection so decided to save my energies for the walk out. 

Paul setting out on Black Sunday

Christine and Nick on Bowers Route.

Paul and Jago were impressed by the quality of their route particularly the first pitch while Nick and Christine though theirs to be a traditional mountaineering route with more than its share of vegetation. All of us enjoyed a good day out though.

Sunday morning saw a change in the weather with persistent rain sending us on our way home.

Burbage North

Having both missed out on the Tuesday night meet at Burbage North Paul and me decided to take advantage of a sunny Sunday morning to rectify that omission.
We started off on the old favourite Mutiny Crack on Remergence Buttress which I led after some reminiscing about the problems that we could once do on that wall but which were beyond our failing powers now.
Paul then led Wollock and I led Pulcherrime on the adjacent buttress.

Paul on Wollock

A short walk down the edge took us to another old favourite, Knights Move, which I led. This route is showing signs of much wear and tear which is a a testament to its popularity but doesn't seem to affect the climbing.
By this time dark clouds had appeared and a spitting of rain along with aching aged limbs was enough to send us scurrying off to the gear shops.
 

Welsh Mayday Week-end

Jago was the first down to Wales a day ahead of the rest of us and had a quick sprint up Snowdon and back after sampling the tea in the new cafe.
By Sunday me and Nick and Christine had joined him at a strangely quiet Ynys Ettwys and with a cold wind blowing a sheltered sunny crag was needed. We found that at Craig Cau near Bettws-y-Coed unfortunately I did not find any rock shoes in my rucksack. Jago led the 3 star Jingling Wall (HS 4b) and I followed wearing Jago's big mountain boots which were half a size too big but better than my bendy walking boots. The route gave two good sustained pitches. Meanwhile Christine and Nick climbed Long Climb Direct a 2 star severe.

 Christine on Long Climb Direct......

....and on Jingling Wall

Jago attempted to lead Central route 2 but was defeated by route finding difficulties and lack of gear while Christine and Nick climbed Jingling Wall.

On Sunday Jago had to return home and a sprinkling of white stuff on the hills convinced us that another sunny crag was required so Christine, Nick and me headed for Holyhead Mountain where I watched while they climbed Tempest and Tension.

Christine topping out on Tempest

Stanage evening meet

A good turn out for this meet and although not everyone was climbing it made for a sociable evening.

As far as the climbing was concerned Mick opened the proceedings with an ascent of Robin Hoods Right Hand Buttress Direct which was followed by Nidal and Dennis.

Mick leading Robin Hoods RH.

Meanwhile Paul arrived and climbed Straight Crack which Christine followed.

Paul starting Straight Crack

Nidal and Paul both then led Inverted V in succession seconded by Nidal and Christine respectively.

Nidal on Inverted V

Pito Peak, Arrowsmith Range NZ.

The following is a report from the New Zealand branch of the club sent by Rob Hill.

The forecast was less than inspiring, but March 26-29 2010 was when the trip had to be due to family and work commitments of the members. We were Shane, myself, and Joan, a Kiwi born in Durham.
We started off up the Cameron Valley, heading for the Arrowsmiths, an offshoot of the main divide in New Zealand's South Island. We were heading for Pito Peak, 2419m. Joan and I had attempted it earlier in the year, but failed, due to leaving too long an approach on the summit day. So leaving the Cameron Valley, we crossed the Wild Man's Brother range, and descended into the South Ashburton valley, which led up to a glacial basin at the foot of the Arrowsmiths. Joan and I had to wait while Shane, in true new Kiwi fashion, took his boots off to cross the river, then we ruefully continued past the comfortable hut which had proved to be too far from the summit on our last trip.
There were plenty of good camping spots near the start of the climb. The Nor'-West wind got up magnificently during the night. Modern tent design is wonderful, allowing tents to duck out of the wind, but
nevertheless the whacks on your head from the roof and walls of your tent during gusts doesn't make for a good night's sleep. The wind was still up in the morning, and it wasn't until 8am that it dropped enough to make a start worthwhile.

The start was approx. 600m of fairly steep scrambling, over tussock, rock, and spaniards*. this led to relatively gentle basins, then a final rubbly climb to the summit. In retrospect, Spring would have been a better time for the climb, when the rubble would have been snow-covered. The summit view was indistinguishable from that often obtained from a Munro- that is, sleety, claggy drizzle. However, we were all delighted to have got there.

During the descent, a truly mystifying noise began from the ridge 100m. or so above us, resembling a swarm of bees hugely amplified. We didn't know what it was, and so prudently scurried behind a large boulder. There was no wind where we were, but the others could see debris flying higher up the ridge. I can only think that it was a williwaw, or small whirlwind, the kind that regularly removes roofs from groups of a few houses here and there in New Zealand. Shane offered thealternative view that it could be a portal to another dimension. either way, we were well out of it.

* In NZ Wild Spaniards, genus aciphyllum, are an alpine plant, grass-like, but with astonishingly sharp spines.

Langdale

On Saturday the concensus was to go up to White Ghyll Crag. Clive & Jago did Slip Knot and Gordian Knot while Christine and Nick and Colin and Bev along with Bev's son Brad climbed the Slabs Route 1 and Christine and Nick followed that with an ascent of Slip Knot.

Jago on Gordian Knot first pitch.

On Sunday one group comprising Clive, Jago, Nick and Christine went to the pleasantly situated but little frequented Kettle Crag while Colin, Bev and Brad headed for Scout Crag.
It was our first visit to Kettle Crag and found the routes a bit scrappy albeit with good rough rock. Clive led Minor Slab, which was a pleasant VS but with modest protection and Cristine led Red Slab (HS) as introductory routes. Jago then went on to lead Red Slab and Semerikod (VS) with various followers.

Christine belaying & Nick climbing on Red Slab