Wednesday, 17 July 2013

Crow Chin Evening

Me and Mick were first to arrive and after a hot and sweaty walk up I decided to lead Kelly's Eliminate (HS 4a) which has a steep fingery start leading to a pleasant slabby finish. While I was belaying Mick, Jago and Christine arrived and followed in turn.
On reaching the bottom the midges were out so I continued leading Feathered Friends (VS 4b) a slightly bold slab climb with a pull over a perched block while Jago led October Slab (HS 4b), Christine and Mick followed respectively.
I continued by leading Christine on October Slab while Mick led Jago on Bent Crack (VD).
Because of the midges we never paused to take photos so no pictures this time. The midges brought a slightly premature end to the nights activities and I finished off by leading Kellys Eye (HS 4a) and Jago led Feathered Friends.

Tuesday, 2 July 2013

Froggat

Arriving at Froggat on a fine Sunday morning the first suitable climb that wasn't occupied was Sickle Buttress Direct (VS 4c). I opted to lead this and enjoyed the final fingery moves. Paul followed without difficulty and then decided to lead Broken Crack (VS 5a) which starts with a strenuous lay back and finishes on hand jams which become increasingly insecure. While I was grappling with the jams and an upturned friend Christine arrived and she also followed it.
We were joined by Rick Graham an old acquaintance of Paul's from the north east. We took off to the right hand end of the crag where Rick led Chequers Buttress (HVS 5a) and  Paul followed while I led Christine on Jankers Crack (HS 4b).   
Paul on Chequers Buttress.

Clive tackling the overhangs on Jankers Crack.
Paul led Jankers groove (VS 4c) and Rick and Christine followed. Rick led Jankers End (VS 4b) without the initial traverse with which I seconded then Paul led it and and Christine followed.
After a bit of coaxing Christine led Green Gut (S 4a) and I followed while Rick and Paul did Valkyrie (HVS 5a) the classic climb on the pinnacle which Rick led in one run-out.

Christine leading Green Gut.
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Stanage Evening

I arrived at the meet venue, Stanage End to find it deserted. I eventually found Mick and Nidal lurking amongst the boulders at Marble Wall. They had climbed Richards Sister (HS 4b) and then Mick had led Right Hand Tower (HVS 5b) taking the best part of a hour over the precarious finishing moves but finally succeeding. A good effort for the first HVS of the year.
Neither were able to overcome the final moves of Back Door (VS 4c) so now Nidal was preparing to lead Marble Arete (VS 4c). After a few attempts at the left hand start he finally got established on the climb by the right hand start and cruised the easier upper section to the top.

Nidal leading Marble Arete.

Mick followed by the right hand start and I followed by the left hand start.
Clive on the left hand start.


Thursday, 20 June 2013

Bamford Evening

Me, Mick and Nidal arrived at Bamford Edge in warm overcast & humid conditions. I kicked off leading Bamford Wall (S 4a) with Mick and Nidal following.

Bamford Wall
 Jago then arrived and led Bamford Buttresss (HS 4a) while Nidal set out on Oracle but missed the traverse and finished up the chimney. Mick then led Delilah (HS 4a) and I led Twin Cracks (VS 4b) a route that succumbs to wide bridging and long reaches. I had failed to lead it a couple of years earlier so was quite relieved to do it without too much pain in the joints. Jago finished his night by leading Bamford Wall and Mick led Nidal on Bamford Buttress.
Bamford Buttress.

Burbage North

Another fine Sunday so me and Paul headed for Burbage North. I started proceedings with a lead of Mutiny Crack (HS 4c), a fine climb with good positions, good holds and good protection but just not long enough. Paul then led Wollock HVS 4c another fine climb with a testing finish.
Paul leading Wollock.
 I followed by leading Pulcherrime (VS 4b) the crack line to the right which gives a a stiff jamming test.
We then spent lots of time and energy trying to climb The Grogan a gnarly HVS 5b before giving it best and retreating to Hollyash Wall where Paul led Big Chimney Arete (HS 4b).
At this point we succumbed to the lure of tea and cake at Outside cafe.

Tuesday, 11 June 2013

Summer Sunday on Stanage.

On Sunday Paul and me found themselves at Stanage, a place that we once would have avoided like the plague on a sunny summery day.
We headed for High Neb which was quite busy but not enough to have to queue for routes. Paul started off on the classic old favourite High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) which relents after a stiff start and gives some good delicate slab climbing.

Paul on High Neb Buttress
 I then led Tango Buttress an HS with a 5a start and pleasant climbing above. Next Paul led another old favourite Inaccessible Crack (VS 4c) again with a tough start and interesting moves further up to an good steep finishing crack.
I then attempted Straight Crack (S 4b) but failed on the final moves due to weak arms and lack of moral fibre. Paul led it and solved the crux move without difficulty and I followed with difficulty.
After that we decided that it was time for the cafe and look at replacements for my worn out rock shoes

Saturday, 8 June 2013

Burbage South Evening Meet.

The following report is again gleaned from the participants reports so I accept no responsibility for the accuracy thereof.
The attendees split into two teams Mick and Nidal forming one team and Christine and Paul the other.
Nidal began by leading Fox House Flake (VS 4b) while Paul and Christine started out on Staircase (HS 4b) to warm up, they then did Byne's Crack (VS 4b) a classic at the grade.
Mick led Reginald (VS 4b) before making a noisy aided ascent of Roof Route (VS 4c) a notorious off width crack.

Mick leading Reginald.

Paul and Christine then finished on Gable Route (HVS 4c) a more pleasant companion to Roof Route.

May Bank Holiday Weekend

The following is Pauls account of the May day week-end trip to Llanberis.

Jago and Paul joined up with Andy Saxby a fellow CC member at Tremadoc on Saturday climbing a combination of Meshach and Shadrach (VS 4c) followed by an ascent of Scratch (VS 4c).


Andy Saxby on Meshach first Pitch
Jago on Scratch pitch 2.
On Sunday they headed out to the Moelwyns where Jago and Paul climbed Pinky (VS) but failed on Slant due to it being covered in moss and heather.
Meanwhile Colin and Bev climbed Kirkus's Direct (S) and Slack (S).
Mondays gales and rain forced an early trip home.

Thursday, 9 May 2013

Llanberis May Day

Clive, Paul and Christine arrived on Saturday afternoon too preoccupied and exhausted with listening to Barnsley FC's last minute survival in the Championship to get any routes in.
Sunday started off windy and drizzly in the pass so we headed for Tremadoc which was drier if no less windy.
Our intention was to do Christmas Curry with the Treemudrock Finish but the queues forced us on to Kestrel Cracks (HVS 5a). Paul led off up the first pitch which gave steep bridging and jamming at a solid VS 4c and Christine and me followed. Christine continued up the easy second pitch and we all gathered on a large stance below the final crucial pitch.
Paul led this up an awkward leaning corner which formed the crux then easier cracks to finish.

Paul leading the crucial corner
After tea and cake in the cafe we managed to complete our initial objective so completing a satisfactory day.
Sunday in the pass was still windy but dry so we set out to do Ribstone Crack on Carreg Wastad but once again the climb was taken. Rather than wait we did went round the corner and climbed Skylon (HS 4b) which had some interesting moves on the crux.
Paul leading Skylon

Friday, 3 May 2013

Stanage Evening

Me and Mick were the first to arrive and Mick duly led off on his all time favourite climb Central Trinity (VS 4c) and with his new slim line frame this was accomplished without difficulty.
Mick leading Central Trinity,.
  Jago and Nidal arrived and Nidal led Christmas Crack (HS 4b) for starters and Jago led Central Trinity.
Central Trinity: Jago leading Nidal belaying.
 I then led Right Hand Trinity (S 4a) and Mick led Christmas Crack. I finished the night by leading Via Media (VS 4c).
Clive on Via Media.
As I left with dusk approaching Nidal had just finished a variation on Narrow Buttress (VS 4c) with Mick and Jago queuing for a go.