Sunday 15 May 2011

Grey Crag

Colin and Bev had ambitions on Oxford and Cambridge Direct on Grey Crag in Birkness combe, Buttermere and Nick and Christine decided to join us.
After a fine dry spell for several days we had heavy rain overnight and awoke to cloud covered hills. Colin and Bev were undetered so with some misgivings on my part we all set off on the slog up to the crag. Grey Crag lies at about 660 metres so any way up was going to be hard work.  After an hour and a half we were in the middle of some unstable scree unable to see anything in the mist then a gust of wind opened up the view and the crag was just ahead. The crag consists of a series of buttresses at different levels so it is possible to string routes together.
I had designs on Spider Wall and Fortiter to get up to Oxford and Cambridge Direct which lies on the upper tier however the cloud closed in again bringing spots of rain so a change of plan was called for.

Gearing up in the mist.
Christine and Nick had already decided to climb Mitre Buttress direct (MS) so we followed them on a rope of three.
After a slightly scrappy start there are two steep pitches giving good climbing on large holds despite the ever so slightly slimey feel to the rock. There is a final optional pitch which is reached by a short traverse and gives some good old fashioned chimney climbing.
Nick leading the second pitch.
Colin on the penultimate pitch.
  After each pitch the rain slowly got heavier until at the top of the climb it was siling it down so we abandoned thoughs of other routes and headed back down to the sacks and waterproofs.
On Sunday Christine  and Nick climbed  Holly Tree Grooves (HS 4a) on Yew Crags which gave a good second pitch and a problematical descent.

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