Good Friday on Font D´Axia.

As usual, the weather forecast for the Easter weekend was unsettled (no, it´s not always sunny over here!!) so we decided to spend Good Friday on a crag called Font D´Axia in the Jalon Valley. Its relatively low lying and is in a sheltered position, not far from the car and has a number of new routes.

Together with our neighbour Nick Snelling, we started the day in customary fashion with coffee and cakes before venturing onto the crag. As it was Good Friday, we expected a few other climbers to be out so were delighted to find the crag deserted!

We enjoyed a relaxed afternoon and completed 5 routes.


























Dave on ´Les Zapatelles de Pastor´5+

Barnsley Boundary 5

This leg of the boundary walk started at Tankersley church and took a circuitous route to Wortley. Although the finish was only four miles away by road we had to walk over 11 miles to get there. The upside is that the walk goes through pleasant countryside and woodland.
Once again we had an unseasonably warm and sunny day as we, that is Colin, Bev, Jen and me left the church to walk through fields and small woods to Westwood Country Park then turned sharply to the north towards Howbrook and circled back south to Woodhead road via Smithy Fold and Hazelshaw farm.

Approaching Woodhead Road from Hazelshaw Farm

Heading towards Wharncliffe Wood

Here the character of the countryside changed from meadows to heathland as we skirted Wharncliffe Chase into Wharncliffe Wood.

Wharncliffe Wood

We followed the trails through the wood and eventually up onto open ground on top of Wharncliffe Crags form there it was downhill through the woods to the car.

Rivelin Evening meet

Another beautiful day in the Peak and me and Jago were first to turn up for the Rivelin evening meet. Jago wanted a steady route to start so I suggested Rodneys Dilemma (S 4a) a two star severe in Scarletts Bay an area that we hadn't been to for some time. This route follows a narrow arete with good exposure and bold moves all on really good holds.

Jago leading Rodney's Dilemma

  Meanwhile Christine arrived and seconded the route and I came up as third man on the rope.
I then led Croton Oil (HVS 5a) on the Needle, a route not to be missed on the first outing of the year on Rivelin. After a short wide crack to start face climbing leads to the crux a lay away stretch to a good hold in a flake. A romp up the flake leads to another more fragile flake which gains the top of the Needle.

Approaching the crux on Croton Oil.

Dusk was falling as first Jago then Christine followed. By the time we abbed off and packed up it was dark leaving us to stumble back through the woods by the light of the one headtorch we had between us.

Abseil from the Needle.

 Having missed Wharncliff the previous week this was a good start to the seasons evening meets.

Stanage Again.

Paul and me headed out to the Peak on Sunday with little idea of where to go or what to do. Paul's car came to a halt under Stanage Edge and we decided to visit the Christmas Crack area. I led Christmas Crack (HS 4b) for a starter then Paul led April Crack (HS 4b). April Crack was a route that I usually overlooked for some reason but really enjoyed this time out. I then led Central Trinity (VS 4c) which showed up the missed climbing wall sessions over the winter by taking its toll on my arm strength.

Central trinity

   Paul followed this by leading Hargreaves Original (VS 4c) on Black Slab, another excellent route. We were then beaten to Narrow Buttress by some top ropers so diverted to Rugosity Wall where I led Oblique buttress (VS 5b) which has a boulder problem start and then gets easier higher up. We finished the day on Via Media (VS 4c) which Paul led.   

Climbing at Alcalali

On Sunday 17th April, Dave and Carolina together with neighbour and friend Nick, spent the afternoon climbing at Alcalali. This is a superb limestone crag in the Jalon valley, 50 minutes drive from home.

The crag was deserted, and bathed in sunshine. There are quite a few new routes here, mostly put up in late 2010, so the bolts and lower-offs are in excellent condition.

Dave on ´Hogswatch´5+

We enjoyed a super afternoon, and completed 5 routes.

Carolina on ´Tasha Mitica´4+

Out on the grit at last.

Warm sunshine and winning a slight alteraction with an unofficial parking attendant over the last space at Hooks Carr car park put us in a good mood for a tussle with the grit at Stanage popular end.
We were sporting a range of injuries and maladies so we made for the old favourites to build strength and confidence. At the bottom of Heather Wall (VS 4c) I was surprised to find that the crag was steeper than it used to be but the memory banks kicked in and the climb went easily enough and Paul and Christine followed without any dificulties.    

Clive leading Heather Wall

Paul then led Manchester Buttress (HS 4b) which gives a lot of good climbing for its grade and size.

Paul leading Manchester Buttress

I followed with a lead of Tinkers Crack (VS 4c) a route that I didn't do often which climbs steadily up flakes to a more difficult finish. Then Paul led Gargoyle Buttress (VS 4b) and as I pulled tentatively over the perched boulder when seconding I reflected that after nearly forty years of making that move it was surpringly still in place.

Christine approaching the perched block.

  By now we were feeling a bit jaded so decided to finish on Green Wall (VS 4b) which I hadn't done for some years. I led off easily up the wall to the pull into the niche where confidence began to evaporate and I resorted to using my knees. Once in the niche, in a most uncomfortable postion I realised why I didn't climb this route regularly. I made a few unsuccessful forays up to the left before backing off. Paul then led off and quickly found the moves but said that that it was awkward and undergraded. Christine then found an easier way into the niche and I followed more easily now having the beta on the moves.

Although the car park filled to overflowing there weren't that many climbers on the crag for a sunny Sunday so we enjoyed some of the popular classics without queueing for routes. 

Borrowdale

Jago and myself were the only members to attend the meet based at the CC hut at Grange. On Friday evening I renewed an aquaintence with CC member Tim with whom I had climbed on Pavey Ark some years earlier.

On Saturday morning low cloud and rain put paid to any notion of climbing so we set out for a walk over the fells behind the hut. We walked up the valley behind Borrowdale Castle and then took the path up Tongue Gill   


Approaching Tongue Gill

View down Tongue Gill

As we climbed the gill passing the old quarries the clouds lifted and began breaking up so that by the time that we reached the tall cairn on High Spy the sun was out albeit with a stiff cold wind.

High Spy summit.

We carried on over Maiden Moor before dropping down to join the masses on Cat Bells and back to the hut.

View from Maiden Moor

The improvement in the weather made us think about the possiblility of dry crags on Sunday but once again on Sunday morning our hopes were dashed. Everything was wet and didn't look like it would dry out so we sety off for another walk this time over the fells north of Whinlatter Pass. The route went over Kirk Fell and Graystones to Broom Fell and once again when we gained some height the clouds broke up and the sun came out and took the edge of the cold wind.

Approaching Broom Fell.

From Broom Fell a fairly level path took us the Lords Seat and the path back down.

Barnsley Boundary 4

This leg of the walk goes from Bolton on Dearne railway station to Tankersley Church. The first section over the old pit heaps behind Old Moor and round to the canal at Wombwell is uninspiring. The route takes on a different character once the canal is reached with pleasant easy walking through to Elsecar.

The canal at Wombwell

Steam Engine at Elsecar.

A navigational error at Elsecar added an extra mile onto the journey but we eventually found our way back on track. The path the took us through woods and fields to the finish at Tankersley church.

Approaching Tankersley Church.

With several A-roads and the M1 to cross and some industrial areas to navigate this leg was not the most consistently scenic but passed through some pleasant areas.