Monday, 11 April 2011

Out on the grit at last.

Warm sunshine and winning a slight alteraction with an unofficial parking attendant over the last space at Hooks Carr car park put us in a good mood for a tussle with the grit at Stanage popular end.
We were sporting a range of injuries and maladies so we made for the old favourites to build strength and confidence. At the bottom of Heather Wall (VS 4c) I was surprised to find that the crag was steeper than it used to be but the memory banks kicked in and the climb went easily enough and Paul and Christine followed without any dificulties.    
Clive leading Heather Wall
Paul then led Manchester Buttress (HS 4b) which gives a lot of good climbing for its grade and size.
Paul leading Manchester Buttress
I followed with a lead of Tinkers Crack (VS 4c) a route that I didn't do often which climbs steadily up flakes to a more difficult finish. Then Paul led Gargoyle Buttress (VS 4b) and as I pulled tentatively over the perched boulder when seconding I reflected that after nearly forty years of making that move it was surpringly still in place.
Christine approaching the perched block.
  By now we were feeling a bit jaded so decided to finish on Green Wall (VS 4b) which I hadn't done for some years. I led off easily up the wall to the pull into the niche where confidence began to evaporate and I resorted to using my knees. Once in the niche, in a most uncomfortable postion I realised why I didn't climb this route regularly. I made a few unsuccessful forays up to the left before backing off. Paul then led off and quickly found the moves but said that that it was awkward and undergraded. Christine then found an easier way into the niche and I followed more easily now having the beta on the moves.
Although the car park filled to overflowing there weren't that many climbers on the crag for a sunny Sunday so we enjoyed some of the popular classics without queueing for routes. 

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