Monday 11 August 2014

Sunny Sunday at Curbar.

I had a rare Sundays climbing with Paul and we decided to visit the north end of Curbar Edge a place long neglected by us. We approached via Froggat and descended to try and find The Brain (VS 4c), in no time we were shoulder deep in bracken and after several minutes thrashing and stumbling about we reached the bottom of the route.
I led the first pitch which has a nervy traverse across a slab on finger ends and sloping footholds to reach better holds and up to a belay in a corner. Paul then led the next pitch launching up the steep corner then out and up the arete.
We then thrashed our way through more bracken to Potters Wall (HS 4a) a good steep pitch which I led. 
Clive on Potters Wall
After another arduous traverse we reached Calver Wall (VS 5a) which Paul led via some precarious layaways on the upper crucial crack.
By now the heat and bracken bashing had taken its toll and we called it day, but not a bad day all in all.

Wednesday 30 July 2014

Stanage Black Hawk

Another fine sunny evening found me  Paul and Christine at the Black Hawk area of Stanage. I opened proceedings with a lead of Heather Wall (VS 4c) an old favourite with some good steep climbing which Paul and Christine followed.
Paul following Heather Wall
Paul then led Manchester Buttress (HS 4b) which packs a lot into a short route with some off balance cracks, a traverse to a steep wall and blind step round a bulge to a ledge then a nice slabby finish. Me and Christine followed then to finish the night Paul led Tinkers Crack (VS 4c).
Paul leading Manchester Buttress

Paul leading Tinkers Crack

Bamford Evening

Jago and me arrived at Bamford Edge on a warm sunny evening and I began by leading Bamford Buttress (HS 4a) a good warm-up route.
Paul and Christine arrived and Paul led Bamford Rib (HVS 5a) which has some steady moves to a ledge to finish with a pull up a bulging crack and Christine followed.
Christine starting Bamford Rib
 Jago then led Reach (VS 4c) which as the name suggests has some long reachy moves as well as some high mantleshelf moves and I followed.
Jago leading Reach

After these strenuosities Jago then led Bamford Wall (S 4a) and Paul led Christine on Bamford Buttress.
Christine on Bamford Wall, Paul belaying.
Christine then closed a good evening's climbing with a lead of Bamford Wall.
Christine leading Bamford Wall

Tuesday 1 July 2014

Dunnerdale

Just myself and Jago attended this meet on a glorious sunny weekend. The heat was tempered by a cool breeze which made for good climbing conditions. 


Dunnerdale from Wallowbarrow


Jago was in need of rock mileage and I was in need of an easy day so we decided on Wallowbarrow Crag. A steady walk from the campsite took us to the crag and we started on Bryanston (MVS 4b). The second and third can be combined to make a good long pitch with some good steep climbing.
Next up was Digitation (MVS 4b) Jago led the first slabby pitch over an overlap and I led the top pitch op short steep walls on positive holds.
Jago on the top pitch of Digitation
 Next Jago led Western Wall (MVS 4b). Again this climb benefits from combining the two pitches to give a good varied climb with a delicate traverse leading to a steep wall then a diagonal ramp to a steep finish on good holds.
Jago on the delicate bit.
    

Millstone Evening

Mick and Nidal were already at work in the Hells Bells area when Jago and I arrived, Nidal had led that route with a little help from the nearby Chiming Cracks and Mick was following in the same manner. I led it staying on the route and found it tough for the grade a view which was supported by Jago as he followed.
Moving to the Cioch area Jago led Brumal (VS 4c) which is becoming a regular fixture, Christine and I followed while Nidal led Eartha (HS 4b). I succumbed to the midges and fled to the car while Christine led Eartha and Mick led Brumal. 


Jago leading Brumal


Nidal topping out on Eartha

Thursday 5 June 2014

High Neb Evening Meet

Mick and Nidal were already in action when Jago and I arrived at the crag with Nidal leading Twisting Crack a two star severe.
I began by leading Tango Buttress (HS 5a) another two star route with a 5a bouldering start.
Jago following Tango Buttress

Jago then led Norse Corner climb (HS 4c) yet another two star route and another bouldery start.
Meanwhile Mick led Innaccessible Crack (VS 4c) after which Nidal led Kellys Variation (S 4a) which leads to the finish of Norse Corner from round the side.
Mick leading inaccessible crack
Christine arrived and flipped from team to team seconding any routes that were available. 
I led twisting crack and Jago led Inaccessible Crack while Mick led Erics Eliminate (S) to finish the night.   


Spring Bank Munros

After a two day journey to the far north Jago called on all his Alaskan experience to ride out a days storm in his tent until he was able to set out on Ben Klibreck. The cold wet conditions continued during the ascent but later that day he also did Ben Hope.
He then headed south to climb Ben More Assynt and Conival under similar conditions.
The next week Chrstine and Nick had much better conditions on their Scottish odyssey where they began with an ascent of Ben Cruachan.
Ben Cruachan
 
Summit of Ben Cruachan looking to Stob Diamh
After a birding trip to Mull and Iona they returned to the mainland to climb Beinn a'Chochhuill and Beinn Eunaich again in good weather.


Summit of Beinn Eunaich

Saturday 10 May 2014

Mayday in Llanberis


Clive, Paul, Christine and Nick turned up for the Mayday Bank Holiday weekend in Llanberis. I was first to arrive and I was met by a cold stiff breeze blowing through the pass which persisted all weekend.
The others all arrived by Saturday morninng and we decided to stay in the pass and headed for Dinas Cromlech with our objective being Dives with the Better Things finish (HS 4b). Paul and Christine set off up the first pitch and me and Nick followed. the pitch was quite steady apart from a wet patch where we had to cross some decidedly slippery footholds.
Nick led a short section to the belay below the final corner, this gave some old fashioned steep bridging and jug pulling to the finish. Normally this type of climbing is to be relished but the cold wind took away the warmth and numbed the fingers enough to spoil the experience.

Clive starting the Better Things finish.
 On Sunday Paul found a new crag the prospect of which renewed our enthusiasm. Craig y Dyniewyd sits in the remote Nantmoor valley and unsurprisingly was deserted when we arrived.
The first route was Christmas Crack (S) and Christine volunteered to lead the first pitch which climbed a groove to a nice leftward traverse.
Christine starting the groove
 
Paul finishing the traverse
Paul led the final scrappier pitch to finish.

Paul then decided to up the ante and lead Skyline (E1 5b) a long single pitch climb up a steep crack and groove.
Paul starting Skyline
Approaching the crux
Christine seconded the pitch to complete the weekends climbing. 
While it will never be the most popular crag in Wales Craig y Dyniewyd was worth the visit and a further starred HVS awaits a return visit.

Thursday 1 May 2014

Burbage North Evening Meet

Jago and me were first to arrive and I started off by leading the old favourite Mutiny Crack (HS 4c) which after a short struggle over a low overhang leads to pleasant jug pulling over more overhangs.
Clive on Mutiny Crack
While belaying Jago Nidal and Christine both turned up and they all followed the route.
Jago then led Pulcherime (VS 4b) a jamming crack with a thought provoking finish and we all followed.
Christine following Pulcherime
 I then led Wallock (HVS 4c) which goes up a steep wall on good holds and jams until a final pull over the lip on on less good holds.



Clive leading Wallock
Everyone followed with varying degrees of success. By now the already dull skies were darkening and we were weakening so we called it a day.
 

Saturday 19 April 2014

Wharncliff Evening

Despite bright sunshine only me, Jago and Dave Charlesworth turned up for the inaugural evening meet.  

I began proceedings leading the Nose (VS 4c) on the Prow. This is a nice steep climb on good holds with some dynamic moves.
Jago then lead Curved Balls (VS 4c) which follows a thin curving flake via some fingery moves to a steep crack to finish.

Jago on the Finishing Crack

Meanwhile Dave had managed to cut his finger on the approach to the crag so retreated to Lowood Club. 
I then led the direct start to Crack and Corner (VS 4c) to finish the evenings climbing and join Dave for a pint in the Club.

Ogwen

Me, Jago, Christine and Paul attended this meet based at Helyg. A strong cold northwest wind kept us focused on the low lying crags so we set out for Clogwyn Y Tarw once known as the Gribin Facet.. Paul and me chose to do Flake Crack (VS 4c). Paul led off up to the flake via a mantleshelf, a foot traverse and a wide crack to belay behind the flake. I followed and by the time I reached the belay I was suffering from numb fingers so Paul led the second pitch which involves climbing the flake and making a precarious step from the top of the flake onto the main buttress.
After considering then rejecting Zig Zag route Jago and Christine decided to follow us.
Jago Approaching the Flake
    
Christine Preparing to Step Off the Flake

The forecast rain was threatening so we retreated to Capel Curig and some gear shopping.

The weather on Sunday was the same cold greyness so we went down to Nant Gwynant to do Oxine a classic VS which takes the first pitch of Oxo and the last pitch of Bovine. 
Paul cut his hand while getting ready which meant we were a rope of three. 
I led off the first pitch which was a long rising traverse but mainly climbing in balance.
 
Clive on the first pitch of Oxine.

Christine followed and Jago came up last then led through on to the second pitch. This pitch gave totally different climbing, steep and juggy but all on your hands so we suffered numb fingers and hot aches once again. 
 

Tuesday 18 March 2014

Aviemore and more

Jago went up to the CC hut at Roy Bridge ahead of the Aviemore meet to add to his Munro tally. He headed for the ridge north of Loch Mullardoch starting at the dam.
 
Loch Mullardoch


It turned out to be the warmest day of the year so far and he was rewarded with distant views in all directions as he traversed the crisp snow covered summits of Carn nan Gobhar, Sgurr na Lapaich and An Riabhachan.   
Sgurr Na Lapaich

An Riabhachan from Sgurr nan Lapaich
The local wild life were also enjoying the spring sunshine as he saw stags, snow buntings, ptarmigan and a golden eagle circling on the updraughts.

Nick, Christine and Clive met Jago in Aviemore where Christine and Nick travelled to Fersit to climb Stob Coire Striodain and Chno Dearg. Unfortunately they didn't enjoy such glorious weather as they battled against gale force gusts of wind while navigating through thick mists over the two summits.
Clive and Jago opted for a low level walk through the Rothiemurchus pine forest.

Nick and Christine stayed on an extra day and climbed Meall Gaordie, an isolated munro between Glen Lochay and Glen Lyon.  

Nick on the summit of Meall Gaordie

Sunday 2 February 2014

Buttermere in January

Clive, Jago, Christine and Nick met at Birkness in Buttermere for a weekends fell walking. Saturday morning brought persistent rain with the promise of more to come. That and my bad knee led to the decision to do a quick ascent of Low Fell and Fellbarrow, two low lying hills north of Loweswater. 
We followed the track to Mosser from the side of Loweswater to a stile and we began the ascent of  Darling Fell, our first objective.Overcoming Christine's wish to follow the map literally and make a direct ascent through loose scree and prickly gorse we followed the more amenable path alongside the fence line to the summit. From there a sharp descent and another steep climb brought us to the summit of Low Fell.
Approaching Low Fell Summit
From there we headed northwards to Fellbarrow, thankfully the rain in these outlying fells turned out lighter than forecast so we enjoyed good views in all directions. We then headed down to the Mosser road and from there to Waterend and the car and back to base for tea beside a real fire.

Fellbarrow Summit

Tea Time
These two fells are the high points of an isolated range between the high lakeland fells and Cockermouth and consequently make for a good short days walking with extensive views back to the high fells and over the Solway Firth.