Froggat Evening

Me and Mick arrived at the Sunset Slab area to find it throng so we nipped round the corner to Terrace Crack (HS 4b). This route had long faded from my memory although I reckoned I must have done it before. Anyway I opted for the lead because a few midges were making their presence felt and it was breezy on top.
The route evoked only faint memories which was surprising since it gave good climbing with bomber protection. Mick soon followed and we headed down to find the midges had increased somewhat so we decided to go to the Great Slab area which was more open and where we met Christine who had just arrived.
Mick decided to lead Trapeze Direct (VS 5a) which is really a severe with one hard move. He set off just as the midges found us and by the time he had overcome the crux they were in out their thousands.

Trapeze Direct - Mick contemplating the crux

Trapeze Direct - Clive on the crux.

 I followed to find to my dismay that the breeze at the top had subsided and the midges were biting freely. Christine came up next complaining all the way about being bitten while she was climbing. It was a no-brainer to decide to pack up and leave early along with all the other teams who were out that night.

Curbar Evening Meet.

Mick, Christine and Jago turned out for this evening meet and ended up at the usual Avalanche Wall - Elder Buttress area.

Mick led the usual PMC1 (HS 4a) starter and Jago led the usual Owl's Arete (HS 4c) finishing course.

Christine following P.M.C.1.

Torridon

The following was submitted by Jago.

As I arrived at the Torridon village campsite on Thursday evening I was met by the traditional summer greeting party of incalculable midges and heavy rain.  After a wet night and morning I decided to go for a quick truck up Ben Eighe to tick the summit of Spidean Coire nan Clach (993m) during the afternoon.  The top had been reclassified as a Monroe summit long after I first ascended the peak with Mick during spring bank holiday in 1988.   

The following day the weather improved a little providing prolonged sunny spells in between the regular downpours.  I therefore opted to do Moaile Lunndaidh (1007m) from Glen Carron, which provide a long tough day’s hillwalking amongst majestic scenery. 

The Roaches

A fine but blustery Sunday found Me, Paul and Christine on a long delayed visit to the Roaches. We headed for Blushing Buttress to avoid the worst of the gusts and I kicked off by leading Right-Hand Route (S 4b) a good solid climb with laybacks and jams and an overhand to finish.

Right-Hand Route

Paul and Christine followed and so that the right hand knew what the left hand was doing, Paul led Left-Hand Route. This was variously graded HVD 4a to HS 4b but after a layback start gives more delicate climbing to finish.
We moved to Calcutta Buttress where I led Calcutta Crack (S 4b) another good honest route on cracking jams.

Calcutta Crack

We moved to The Great Slab area where Paul led Technical Slab (HS 4a) and fine climb with reachy moves and spaced protection.

Technical Slab

 To finish the day Paul and Christine did Aqua (VS 4b) on the Central Massif then it was off to the cafe for tea and cakes.

Millstone Evening

Me, Mick and Jago arrived at the Cioch Area of Millstone and Jago set off on The Hacker (VS 4c) which starts up a thin crack to some balance moves round the corner then finishes up an arete.

Jago starting The Hacker.

 this went OK until the balance moves which required a couple of attempts before succumbing. The final arete went without too much trouble and Mick seconded also without too much trouble.
Paul had arrived so we teamed up and I led Brumal (VS 4c) which follows Boomerang to some nice twin cracks which lead to a steep and seemingly crumbly finish. Paul followed and so did Christine.
Paul then led Mayday (HVS 5a) a thin technical route up the left hand arete of the Cioch. I followed and then led the finishing pitch up the arete of The Hacker before Christine followed.
 

Clive seconding Mayday.

 We sneaked off round the corner to avoid the midges and Paul decided to lead Eros (HVS 5a). All went well until the middle section where it all went wrong and off he came.

Paul on Eros

Paul off Eros

Christine retrieved the gear on a top rope and went on to finish the route before we called it a day.
Meanwhile back with the midges Mick led Eartha (HS 4b) to finish their evening.

Bamford evening

Me and Mick were first to arrive and set out for the Salmon Slab area. Black threatening clouds hovered over Kinder as Mick started off leading Browns Crack (HS 4b). I followed and so did Christine who had arrived in the meantime.

Mick leading Browns Crack

Christine seconding

The black clouds had drifted northwards so I set out on Curving Crack (VS 4c). At the top of the crack I found myself in a bit of a tangle and had to retreat. Mick took over and led to the top and we followed without incident.

 

Clive attempting Curving Crack

Llanberis

I arrived at Ynys Ettws early on Friday intending to do something but the weather had other ideas. Not the usual rain but heat; it was seeping from the ground, it was reflected from the walls and it was carried on the breeze. I pitched my tent then slowly wilted while drinking copious amounts of tea and water and deferred any activity until Saturday.
By Saturday Christine and Nick had arrived and we opted for a short walk to the Grochan and Hazel Groove (HS 4b). The route gave two good pitches to start with but then it was a bit scrappy with a tenuous finishing move on the last pitch.

Clive on the traverse of pitch 2.

Christine on pitch 2

On Sunday we went to Anglesey for the birding and cafes while Jago and Della, who had arrived on Saturday afternoon enjoyed time in Llanberis park and Llandudno beach.

Della on her first club meet.

Millstone Evening

A reasonable turn out for this meet with Paul, Christine, Jago, Mick and Nidal congregating at the North Bay area.. Nidal led Remembrance Day (VS 4b) with Mick following as the others arrived.

Mick following Remembrance Day.

Paul then led Estremo and Plexity both good HVS 5a routes and Jago and Mick climbed Lyons Corner House (HVS 5a).