Thursday 18 October 2012

Mount Keen

The weather forecast predicted showery rain, light winds, and low cloud, but as I set off to ascend Mt Keen it was the week’s preceding downpours that were upper most in my thinking.  Heavy rain, swollen rivers, and flooded roads had been the main entertainment during my drive to Braemar the previous evening. Originally I’d planned to add to my haul of Monroes with a lightening raid on The Devil's Point via the Derry Lodge route, however I'd altered my objective after reasoning that I’d rather save that particular summit for better conditions; preferably winter conditions with the possibility of a night in a snow shelter enroute.
Nevertheless, walking in via the Glen Tanar route initially seemed a mistake, because the track was ideal for a mountain bike approach.  However, my slower pace through the pine forests and moorland was soon rewarded with better views of the surrounding autumn scenery and wildlife.



I didn't linger for long at the cold, wet, and windy summit, but as I reached the track in the Glen during my descent I met a luckier lone walker who was destined to make the summit in the mid afternoon sunshine.

When I finally reached the car park again, seven and a half hours after setting off, my feet felt well and truly pounded, but at least I'd achieved my first new Monroe summit of the year, and driving back to Braemar Youth Hostel I was comforted by the thought that if I maintain this rapid rate of progress I should finish the Monros in 2041.
Jago

Thursday 4 October 2012

Cornwall

 Way down in the south west we missed the rains and flooding in Yorkshire and managed some climbing to boot.
On Monday we all went to Chair Ladder where Paul and Christine climbed South face Direct (VS 4c), Clive and Nick climbed Pendulum chimney (HS 4b) and Colin and Bev climbed Terriers Tooth (VD) although the first pitch was inaccessible due to high seas. The same conditions caused Christine to be drenched by a rogue wave while belaying at the bottom of their route.  

Clive on the first pitch of Pendulum Chimney
On Tuesday we walked down to Bosigran from the hut and managed a few routes despite the ever-present threat of rain showers. Clive and Nick climbed Ochre Slab (S 4a) and Doorway (S 4a) while Colin and Bev did Clob (VD) and Alison rib (D).
Paul and Christine climbed Venusberg (VS 4c) and Little Brown Jug (VS 5a).

Paul leading the final pitch of  Little Brown Jug.
On Wednesday the rains drifted south and the day was spend birding and visiting tourist spots.
Thursday was better and we all headed for Gurnards Head to climb Right Angle (HS 4b). Christine led off the first rope of three to the first belay. Thereafter Paul led Christine and Colin. A quick exploration down the second pitch showed it to be wet so he continued across the 4b traverse line to belay at the bottom of  the corner. The guide book described a cramped stance but a lower semi-hanging belay was roomy enough for three people. From there he led the fine corner to the top.
Clive led the second rope with Bev and Nick following.
Christine on the traverse into the corner

The corner of Right Angle; Clive leading

Nick in the corner of Right Angle
Clive, Nick and Christine succumbed to the lure of a day trip to the Scilley Isles on friday while Paul, Colin and Bev did Bosigran Ridge (VD) once known as Commando Ridge.
Bev starting Bosigran Ridge
Bev high up on Bosigran Ridge.