Andy Saxby and I had originally planned to spend the weekend of July 10/11th climbing in Scotland, but a dreadful weather forecast persuaded us to change our plans at the last minute. As a result we drove to Ynys Ettws on Friday night and awoke on Saturday to extremely heavy rain and swollen rivers. The prospects of rock climbing that day seemed remote, but we first called into Eric’s café for morning coffee before driving over to Anglesey with a sense of growing resignation. Nevertheless, Castell Helen turned out to be windy but dry, so we followed our next cuppa with an ascent of Lighthouse Arete (VS 4c***), before retreating back to the hut as the weather threatened further rain.

On Sunday we returned to Gogarth hoping that the tides would allow us early access to Scavenger (HVS 5a***) on the Main Cliff area, but our access would be blocked until 5pm so we settled for ‘warming up’ on Central Line (HVS 4c, 5a**) as it remained an ambition of Andy’s. I led the first damp agricultural pitch before Andy made a valiant attempt at the second. Alas, he was defeated by upper crux section, so after the inevitable messing around with ropes I eventually led through to the top. We agreed that we were definitely warmed up, but that it was now far too late to attempt Scavenger!

Millstone Evening Meet

Mick was waiting in the car park when I arrived and we decided to warm up on Covent Garden. Mick led off on the first pitch and shortly later Nidal and family arrived along with a few spots of rain. Nidal and son Matthew joined the rope and we were soon all established on the ledge along with a festoon of ropes. I led the second pitch which gave easy climbing with suspect rock and protection and brought the rest of the team up.
Nidal then decided to lead Lambeth Chimney just as Paul arrived. Mick seconded Nidal so I opted to lead the Mall. Unfortunately I had forgot how awkward it was and how unfit I was resulting in a bit of struggle and arms like jelly at the top. Paul followed without trouble and Mick came up, tied on and brought up Nidal and Matthew.

Clive leading The mall.....

   .....and Nidal following.

Christine arrived and we decamped to the Great Slab area where Paul led Lorica followed by me and Christine and Nidal led the Great Slab. 

Derwent Edge

Jen and me decided to have a walk up to Back Tor via Derwent Edge. We started from the intriguingly named Cutthroat Bridge and headed up towards the Wheel Stones (also known as the Coach and Horses). The strong breeze kept us cool and on reaching Whinstone Lee Tor we had wonderful views into the Derwent valley. We continued past the Wheel Stones to the trig point at Back Tor with extensive views over towards Kinder and Bleaklow all the way.

Jen approaching the Wheel stones.

Looking back towards the wheel Stones.

On the return trip we diverted towards Moscar house and doubled back to Cutthroat Bridge, followed closely part of the way by an over-friendly horse. This gave a slightly longer walk but with gentler gradients.