Saturday, 19 April 2014

Ogwen

Me, Jago, Christine and Paul attended this meet based at Helyg. A strong cold northwest wind kept us focused on the low lying crags so we set out for Clogwyn Y Tarw once known as the Gribin Facet.. Paul and me chose to do Flake Crack (VS 4c). Paul led off up to the flake via a mantleshelf, a foot traverse and a wide crack to belay behind the flake. I followed and by the time I reached the belay I was suffering from numb fingers so Paul led the second pitch which involves climbing the flake and making a precarious step from the top of the flake onto the main buttress.
After considering then rejecting Zig Zag route Jago and Christine decided to follow us.
Jago Approaching the Flake
    
Christine Preparing to Step Off the Flake

The forecast rain was threatening so we retreated to Capel Curig and some gear shopping.

The weather on Sunday was the same cold greyness so we went down to Nant Gwynant to do Oxine a classic VS which takes the first pitch of Oxo and the last pitch of Bovine. 
Paul cut his hand while getting ready which meant we were a rope of three. 
I led off the first pitch which was a long rising traverse but mainly climbing in balance.
 
Clive on the first pitch of Oxine.

Christine followed and Jago came up last then led through on to the second pitch. This pitch gave totally different climbing, steep and juggy but all on your hands so we suffered numb fingers and hot aches once again. 
 

Tuesday, 18 March 2014

Aviemore and more

Jago went up to the CC hut at Roy Bridge ahead of the Aviemore meet to add to his Munro tally. He headed for the ridge north of Loch Mullardoch starting at the dam.
 
Loch Mullardoch


It turned out to be the warmest day of the year so far and he was rewarded with distant views in all directions as he traversed the crisp snow covered summits of Carn nan Gobhar, Sgurr na Lapaich and An Riabhachan.   
Sgurr Na Lapaich

An Riabhachan from Sgurr nan Lapaich
The local wild life were also enjoying the spring sunshine as he saw stags, snow buntings, ptarmigan and a golden eagle circling on the updraughts.

Nick, Christine and Clive met Jago in Aviemore where Christine and Nick travelled to Fersit to climb Stob Coire Striodain and Chno Dearg. Unfortunately they didn't enjoy such glorious weather as they battled against gale force gusts of wind while navigating through thick mists over the two summits.
Clive and Jago opted for a low level walk through the Rothiemurchus pine forest.

Nick and Christine stayed on an extra day and climbed Meall Gaordie, an isolated munro between Glen Lochay and Glen Lyon.  

Nick on the summit of Meall Gaordie

Sunday, 2 February 2014

Buttermere in January

Clive, Jago, Christine and Nick met at Birkness in Buttermere for a weekends fell walking. Saturday morning brought persistent rain with the promise of more to come. That and my bad knee led to the decision to do a quick ascent of Low Fell and Fellbarrow, two low lying hills north of Loweswater. 
We followed the track to Mosser from the side of Loweswater to a stile and we began the ascent of  Darling Fell, our first objective.Overcoming Christine's wish to follow the map literally and make a direct ascent through loose scree and prickly gorse we followed the more amenable path alongside the fence line to the summit. From there a sharp descent and another steep climb brought us to the summit of Low Fell.
Approaching Low Fell Summit
From there we headed northwards to Fellbarrow, thankfully the rain in these outlying fells turned out lighter than forecast so we enjoyed good views in all directions. We then headed down to the Mosser road and from there to Waterend and the car and back to base for tea beside a real fire.

Fellbarrow Summit

Tea Time
These two fells are the high points of an isolated range between the high lakeland fells and Cockermouth and consequently make for a good short days walking with extensive views back to the high fells and over the Solway Firth.

Sunday, 17 November 2013

Borrowdale Weekend

Christine, Nick, Jago and me met at the CC hut at Grange in Borrowdale on Friday night for this meet. Saturdays forecast was for snow showers so we decided to climb Great Gable from Seathwaite. We approached Styhead by the right hand bank of Styhead Gill which involves some easy scrambling and good waterfall views.
By the time we reached the rescue box at Styhead the hailstones were heavy enough to have lunch.
Lunchtime at Styhead
 From Styhead a good well made path leads up the west ridge of Great Gable to the summit where we admired the new FRCC memorial to their war dead.
Summit
From the summit we descended to Windy Gap where below the cloud level we had great views of Ennerdale.

Descent to Windy Gap
 
View from Windy Gap.
 A short ascent then took us to Green Gable and then on to Base Brown. The descent from Base Brown was tricky on wet snow lying on steep, wet, grassy slopes but eventually we reached Sour Milk Gill and the track down to Seathwaite.
On returning to Grange we discovered Dennis had arrived and had constructed a new picnic bench in the hut grounds.
Although the weather was better on Sunday the aches and pains from Saturday precluded another day out on the hills so after a short walk down the valley we headed home.

Tuesday, 22 October 2013

Tremadoc

Jago, Paul and me attended this meet based in the Ogwen valley. Weather conditions in the valley drove us to Tremadoc where there was a prospect of dry rock. We decided to tackle a route called Mensor on Craig y Castell a VS with two 4c pitches.
I led the first pitch which gave some entertaining climbing and Jago led the second pitch again with sustained interest.
Paul decided to investigate the buttresses further west for his lead so off we went. After spending some time thrashing through the jungle and gazing expectantly at obscure bits of rock we finally located the first buttress. this was a disappointment, all green and not very inviting so we gave up and headed for the cafe.
On Sunday the same weather conditions appertained so again we headed for Tremadoc this time to climb Meshach (HVS 4c, 5a) on Bwlch y Moch.
Jago set out on the first pitch but route finding difficulties on the final traverse forced him to belay on Shadrach and Paul followed to finish the pitch. As I prepared to follow the grey skies turned to rain so I declined, they abseiled down and we all retreated to the cafe again.
Jago starting the first pitch...

...and Paul following

Friday, 11 October 2013

Stanage on Sunday

A lovely autumn morning and me and Paul are at Stanage Wall End looking at wall End slab (VS 5a). I start out on the hard left hand start but am soon defeated and climb it further right. The rest of the route goes fairly easily protected by friends until the start of the traverse. The traverse and the final slab finish are virtually unprotected so it is with some relief that I reach the top. Paul follows by the thin left hand start and it is his turn to lead.
He decides on Fern Crack (VS 5a) and laybacks the initial crack which leads to an overhung offwidth which is overcome with some difficulty.

Paul getting stuck into the offwidth
Next we take a look at the little visited Outlook area where I lead Lookout Flake (S 4b) which has a hard start and a hard finish with nothing much in between. Paul then leads Outlook Crack (VS 4c) a perfect jamming crack though like the last route quite short.
By now we are feeling thrashed so repair to the cafe for tea and cake.

Monday, 7 October 2013

Cornwall

Seven members and friends went down to Cornwall for some sun baked rock and cream teas basing ourselves at the Count House a CC hut.
First morning and thick mist shrouded the moor and the top of Bosigran could not be seen. After a morning of drinking tea the mist lifted the sun came out and we all set off for Bosigran.
Doorway and Doorpost were the routes of choice with Christine leading Nick and me, Colin and Bev making up a second rope and Frank Staniland leading his flying mate Alan Clark.

Christine leading the twin cracks of Doorpost.
All the teams completed their routes without incident before repairing back to the hut.
Day two was slightly less misty and Sennen Cove was chosen as the day's venue. On abseiling into the zawn we found the rock to be greasy in places but Demo face appeared to be dry. After some prevarication Christine decided to lead Demo Route only to find that the chimney pitch was very greasy and as Nick and I found out it required a great expenditure of energy to reach the good holds. The next pitch was in better condition but our leader wasn't so some hanging on ropes was required to overcome it.
The normal crux of Demo Route.
The other ropes climbed Black Slab (VD) which also was greasy and we all decided that was enough for that day and resorted to fish and chips, cream teas and clifftop walks to finish the day.
For the final days climbing we all went to Halldrine Cove which was a new venue for us. Our guide book only showed five routes all Diff or V Diff. but a topo in the hut showed some new lines up to VS. The crag turned out to be gentle in nature, a great place for playing. Various routes were climbed up to VS and some enjoyed a good soloing session, a rarity on a sea cliff.
Nick following the VS slab

Clive leading out on a HS traverse.

Langdale Meet

Jago and me based ourselves at the Wayfarers hut for this meet hoping for a good days climbing before the forecast atrocious weather on Sunday.
Saturday was fine so we headed for Raven Crag. I noticed a two starred VS called Mendes located on the side of Middlefell Buttress which I could not recollect doing before.
I led the first pitch which led on good holds to a small belay ledge. Jago led the next cricial pitch which although steep and a little intimidating had some good holds.

Jago perusing the crux moves on Mendes.
A short steep wall brought us onto the crest of Middlefell Buttress and the descent route.
Next we did an old favourite Bilberry Buttress a three star, three pitch VS which Jago led throughout.
Taking in the view from Raven Crag
At the top we relaxed for a while and enjoyed the views in the sunshine before heading back to the hut.
On Sunday the forecast wind and rain arrived so we headed back home via a cafe at Clapham..

Wednesday, 11 September 2013

Lawrencefield Evening

At last a midge free evening, in fact with a cool stiff breeze and a hint of rain in the air it felt like a return to normal British climbing conditions when Jago, Nidal and me arrived.
I was first out of the blocks with a lead of Nova (HS 4b). Jago and Nidal followed as did Christine when she arrived late as usual.
Nova

Nova - Clive leading
  Jago then led Tyron (HVS 4c) which Nidal followed while I led Christine on Gingerbread (VS 4b). Gingerbread is a nice arete climb and being short we finished in time to cadge a top rope on Tyron. This gave steady climbing to a steep finish on good but spaced holds.
Tyron - Jago leading
Tyron - Christine on the Crux moves.
 By now light was fading so we had to call it a day and by the time Jago had packed up mountain rescue bods were prowling round in the dark with heavy duty torches searching for volunteer 'bodies'.


Saturday, 24 August 2013

Froggat Evening

Me and Mick arrived at the Sunset Slab area to find it throng so we nipped round the corner to Terrace Crack (HS 4b). This route had long faded from my memory although I reckoned I must have done it before. Anyway I opted for the lead because a few midges were making their presence felt and it was breezy on top.
The route evoked only faint memories which was surprising since it gave good climbing with bomber protection. Mick soon followed and we headed down to find the midges had increased somewhat so we decided to go to the Great Slab area which was more open and where we met Christine who had just arrived.
Mick decided to lead Trapeze Direct (VS 5a) which is really a severe with one hard move. He set off just as the midges found us and by the time he had overcome the crux they were in out their thousands.

Trapeze Direct - Mick contemplating the crux

Trapeze Direct - Clive on the crux.
 I followed to find to my dismay that the breeze at the top had subsided and the midges were biting freely. Christine came up next complaining all the way about being bitten while she was climbing. It was a no-brainer to decide to pack up and leave early along with all the other teams who were out that night.