Curbar Evening Meet.

Mick, Christine and Jago turned out for this evening meet and ended up at the usual Avalanche Wall - Elder Buttress area.

Mick led the usual PMC1 (HS 4a) starter and Jago led the usual Owl's Arete (HS 4c) finishing course.

Christine following P.M.C.1.

Torridon

The following was submitted by Jago.

As I arrived at the Torridon village campsite on Thursday evening I was met by the traditional summer greeting party of incalculable midges and heavy rain.  After a wet night and morning I decided to go for a quick truck up Ben Eighe to tick the summit of Spidean Coire nan Clach (993m) during the afternoon.  The top had been reclassified as a Monroe summit long after I first ascended the peak with Mick during spring bank holiday in 1988.   

The following day the weather improved a little providing prolonged sunny spells in between the regular downpours.  I therefore opted to do Moaile Lunndaidh (1007m) from Glen Carron, which provide a long tough day’s hillwalking amongst majestic scenery. 

The Roaches

A fine but blustery Sunday found Me, Paul and Christine on a long delayed visit to the Roaches. We headed for Blushing Buttress to avoid the worst of the gusts and I kicked off by leading Right-Hand Route (S 4b) a good solid climb with laybacks and jams and an overhand to finish.

Right-Hand Route

Paul and Christine followed and so that the right hand knew what the left hand was doing, Paul led Left-Hand Route. This was variously graded HVD 4a to HS 4b but after a layback start gives more delicate climbing to finish.
We moved to Calcutta Buttress where I led Calcutta Crack (S 4b) another good honest route on cracking jams.

Calcutta Crack

We moved to The Great Slab area where Paul led Technical Slab (HS 4a) and fine climb with reachy moves and spaced protection.

Technical Slab

 To finish the day Paul and Christine did Aqua (VS 4b) on the Central Massif then it was off to the cafe for tea and cakes.

Millstone Evening

Me, Mick and Jago arrived at the Cioch Area of Millstone and Jago set off on The Hacker (VS 4c) which starts up a thin crack to some balance moves round the corner then finishes up an arete.

Jago starting The Hacker.

 this went OK until the balance moves which required a couple of attempts before succumbing. The final arete went without too much trouble and Mick seconded also without too much trouble.
Paul had arrived so we teamed up and I led Brumal (VS 4c) which follows Boomerang to some nice twin cracks which lead to a steep and seemingly crumbly finish. Paul followed and so did Christine.
Paul then led Mayday (HVS 5a) a thin technical route up the left hand arete of the Cioch. I followed and then led the finishing pitch up the arete of The Hacker before Christine followed.
 

Clive seconding Mayday.

 We sneaked off round the corner to avoid the midges and Paul decided to lead Eros (HVS 5a). All went well until the middle section where it all went wrong and off he came.

Paul on Eros

Paul off Eros

Christine retrieved the gear on a top rope and went on to finish the route before we called it a day.
Meanwhile back with the midges Mick led Eartha (HS 4b) to finish their evening.

Bamford evening

Me and Mick were first to arrive and set out for the Salmon Slab area. Black threatening clouds hovered over Kinder as Mick started off leading Browns Crack (HS 4b). I followed and so did Christine who had arrived in the meantime.

Mick leading Browns Crack

Christine seconding

The black clouds had drifted northwards so I set out on Curving Crack (VS 4c). At the top of the crack I found myself in a bit of a tangle and had to retreat. Mick took over and led to the top and we followed without incident.

 

Clive attempting Curving Crack

Llanberis

I arrived at Ynys Ettws early on Friday intending to do something but the weather had other ideas. Not the usual rain but heat; it was seeping from the ground, it was reflected from the walls and it was carried on the breeze. I pitched my tent then slowly wilted while drinking copious amounts of tea and water and deferred any activity until Saturday.
By Saturday Christine and Nick had arrived and we opted for a short walk to the Grochan and Hazel Groove (HS 4b). The route gave two good pitches to start with but then it was a bit scrappy with a tenuous finishing move on the last pitch.

Clive on the traverse of pitch 2.

Christine on pitch 2

On Sunday we went to Anglesey for the birding and cafes while Jago and Della, who had arrived on Saturday afternoon enjoyed time in Llanberis park and Llandudno beach.

Della on her first club meet.

Millstone Evening

A reasonable turn out for this meet with Paul, Christine, Jago, Mick and Nidal congregating at the North Bay area.. Nidal led Remembrance Day (VS 4b) with Mick following as the others arrived.

Mick following Remembrance Day.

Paul then led Estremo and Plexity both good HVS 5a routes and Jago and Mick climbed Lyons Corner House (HVS 5a).

Crow Chin Evening

Me and Mick were first to arrive and after a hot and sweaty walk up I decided to lead Kelly's Eliminate (HS 4a) which has a steep fingery start leading to a pleasant slabby finish. While I was belaying Mick, Jago and Christine arrived and followed in turn.
On reaching the bottom the midges were out so I continued leading Feathered Friends (VS 4b) a slightly bold slab climb with a pull over a perched block while Jago led October Slab (HS 4b), Christine and Mick followed respectively.
I continued by leading Christine on October Slab while Mick led Jago on Bent Crack (VD).
Because of the midges we never paused to take photos so no pictures this time. The midges brought a slightly premature end to the nights activities and I finished off by leading Kellys Eye (HS 4a) and Jago led Feathered Friends.

Froggat

Arriving at Froggat on a fine Sunday morning the first suitable climb that wasn't occupied was Sickle Buttress Direct (VS 4c). I opted to lead this and enjoyed the final fingery moves. Paul followed without difficulty and then decided to lead Broken Crack (VS 5a) which starts with a strenuous lay back and finishes on hand jams which become increasingly insecure. While I was grappling with the jams and an upturned friend Christine arrived and she also followed it.
We were joined by Rick Graham an old acquaintance of Paul's from the north east. We took off to the right hand end of the crag where Rick led Chequers Buttress (HVS 5a) and  Paul followed while I led Christine on Jankers Crack (HS 4b).   

Paul on Chequers Buttress.

Clive tackling the overhangs on Jankers Crack.

Paul led Jankers groove (VS 4c) and Rick and Christine followed. Rick led Jankers End (VS 4b) without the initial traverse with which I seconded then Paul led it and and Christine followed.
After a bit of coaxing Christine led Green Gut (S 4a) and I followed while Rick and Paul did Valkyrie (HVS 5a) the classic climb on the pinnacle which Rick led in one run-out.

Christine leading Green Gut.

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Stanage Evening

I arrived at the meet venue, Stanage End to find it deserted. I eventually found Mick and Nidal lurking amongst the boulders at Marble Wall. They had climbed Richards Sister (HS 4b) and then Mick had led Right Hand Tower (HVS 5b) taking the best part of a hour over the precarious finishing moves but finally succeeding. A good effort for the first HVS of the year.
Neither were able to overcome the final moves of Back Door (VS 4c) so now Nidal was preparing to lead Marble Arete (VS 4c). After a few attempts at the left hand start he finally got established on the climb by the right hand start and cruised the easier upper section to the top.

Nidal leading Marble Arete.

Mick followed by the right hand start and I followed by the left hand start.

Clive on the left hand start.