Saturday, 10 May 2014

Mayday in Llanberis


Clive, Paul, Christine and Nick turned up for the Mayday Bank Holiday weekend in Llanberis. I was first to arrive and I was met by a cold stiff breeze blowing through the pass which persisted all weekend.
The others all arrived by Saturday morninng and we decided to stay in the pass and headed for Dinas Cromlech with our objective being Dives with the Better Things finish (HS 4b). Paul and Christine set off up the first pitch and me and Nick followed. the pitch was quite steady apart from a wet patch where we had to cross some decidedly slippery footholds.
Nick led a short section to the belay below the final corner, this gave some old fashioned steep bridging and jug pulling to the finish. Normally this type of climbing is to be relished but the cold wind took away the warmth and numbed the fingers enough to spoil the experience.

Clive starting the Better Things finish.
 On Sunday Paul found a new crag the prospect of which renewed our enthusiasm. Craig y Dyniewyd sits in the remote Nantmoor valley and unsurprisingly was deserted when we arrived.
The first route was Christmas Crack (S) and Christine volunteered to lead the first pitch which climbed a groove to a nice leftward traverse.
Christine starting the groove
 
Paul finishing the traverse
Paul led the final scrappier pitch to finish.

Paul then decided to up the ante and lead Skyline (E1 5b) a long single pitch climb up a steep crack and groove.
Paul starting Skyline
Approaching the crux
Christine seconded the pitch to complete the weekends climbing. 
While it will never be the most popular crag in Wales Craig y Dyniewyd was worth the visit and a further starred HVS awaits a return visit.

Thursday, 1 May 2014

Burbage North Evening Meet

Jago and me were first to arrive and I started off by leading the old favourite Mutiny Crack (HS 4c) which after a short struggle over a low overhang leads to pleasant jug pulling over more overhangs.
Clive on Mutiny Crack
While belaying Jago Nidal and Christine both turned up and they all followed the route.
Jago then led Pulcherime (VS 4b) a jamming crack with a thought provoking finish and we all followed.
Christine following Pulcherime
 I then led Wallock (HVS 4c) which goes up a steep wall on good holds and jams until a final pull over the lip on on less good holds.



Clive leading Wallock
Everyone followed with varying degrees of success. By now the already dull skies were darkening and we were weakening so we called it a day.