Tuesday, 22 October 2013

Tremadoc

Jago, Paul and me attended this meet based in the Ogwen valley. Weather conditions in the valley drove us to Tremadoc where there was a prospect of dry rock. We decided to tackle a route called Mensor on Craig y Castell a VS with two 4c pitches.
I led the first pitch which gave some entertaining climbing and Jago led the second pitch again with sustained interest.
Paul decided to investigate the buttresses further west for his lead so off we went. After spending some time thrashing through the jungle and gazing expectantly at obscure bits of rock we finally located the first buttress. this was a disappointment, all green and not very inviting so we gave up and headed for the cafe.
On Sunday the same weather conditions appertained so again we headed for Tremadoc this time to climb Meshach (HVS 4c, 5a) on Bwlch y Moch.
Jago set out on the first pitch but route finding difficulties on the final traverse forced him to belay on Shadrach and Paul followed to finish the pitch. As I prepared to follow the grey skies turned to rain so I declined, they abseiled down and we all retreated to the cafe again.
Jago starting the first pitch...

...and Paul following

Friday, 11 October 2013

Stanage on Sunday

A lovely autumn morning and me and Paul are at Stanage Wall End looking at wall End slab (VS 5a). I start out on the hard left hand start but am soon defeated and climb it further right. The rest of the route goes fairly easily protected by friends until the start of the traverse. The traverse and the final slab finish are virtually unprotected so it is with some relief that I reach the top. Paul follows by the thin left hand start and it is his turn to lead.
He decides on Fern Crack (VS 5a) and laybacks the initial crack which leads to an overhung offwidth which is overcome with some difficulty.

Paul getting stuck into the offwidth
Next we take a look at the little visited Outlook area where I lead Lookout Flake (S 4b) which has a hard start and a hard finish with nothing much in between. Paul then leads Outlook Crack (VS 4c) a perfect jamming crack though like the last route quite short.
By now we are feeling thrashed so repair to the cafe for tea and cake.

Monday, 7 October 2013

Cornwall

Seven members and friends went down to Cornwall for some sun baked rock and cream teas basing ourselves at the Count House a CC hut.
First morning and thick mist shrouded the moor and the top of Bosigran could not be seen. After a morning of drinking tea the mist lifted the sun came out and we all set off for Bosigran.
Doorway and Doorpost were the routes of choice with Christine leading Nick and me, Colin and Bev making up a second rope and Frank Staniland leading his flying mate Alan Clark.

Christine leading the twin cracks of Doorpost.
All the teams completed their routes without incident before repairing back to the hut.
Day two was slightly less misty and Sennen Cove was chosen as the day's venue. On abseiling into the zawn we found the rock to be greasy in places but Demo face appeared to be dry. After some prevarication Christine decided to lead Demo Route only to find that the chimney pitch was very greasy and as Nick and I found out it required a great expenditure of energy to reach the good holds. The next pitch was in better condition but our leader wasn't so some hanging on ropes was required to overcome it.
The normal crux of Demo Route.
The other ropes climbed Black Slab (VD) which also was greasy and we all decided that was enough for that day and resorted to fish and chips, cream teas and clifftop walks to finish the day.
For the final days climbing we all went to Halldrine Cove which was a new venue for us. Our guide book only showed five routes all Diff or V Diff. but a topo in the hut showed some new lines up to VS. The crag turned out to be gentle in nature, a great place for playing. Various routes were climbed up to VS and some enjoyed a good soloing session, a rarity on a sea cliff.
Nick following the VS slab

Clive leading out on a HS traverse.

Langdale Meet

Jago and me based ourselves at the Wayfarers hut for this meet hoping for a good days climbing before the forecast atrocious weather on Sunday.
Saturday was fine so we headed for Raven Crag. I noticed a two starred VS called Mendes located on the side of Middlefell Buttress which I could not recollect doing before.
I led the first pitch which led on good holds to a small belay ledge. Jago led the next cricial pitch which although steep and a little intimidating had some good holds.

Jago perusing the crux moves on Mendes.
A short steep wall brought us onto the crest of Middlefell Buttress and the descent route.
Next we did an old favourite Bilberry Buttress a three star, three pitch VS which Jago led throughout.
Taking in the view from Raven Crag
At the top we relaxed for a while and enjoyed the views in the sunshine before heading back to the hut.
On Sunday the forecast wind and rain arrived so we headed back home via a cafe at Clapham..