Thursday, 20 June 2013

Bamford Evening

Me, Mick and Nidal arrived at Bamford Edge in warm overcast & humid conditions. I kicked off leading Bamford Wall (S 4a) with Mick and Nidal following.

Bamford Wall
 Jago then arrived and led Bamford Buttresss (HS 4a) while Nidal set out on Oracle but missed the traverse and finished up the chimney. Mick then led Delilah (HS 4a) and I led Twin Cracks (VS 4b) a route that succumbs to wide bridging and long reaches. I had failed to lead it a couple of years earlier so was quite relieved to do it without too much pain in the joints. Jago finished his night by leading Bamford Wall and Mick led Nidal on Bamford Buttress.
Bamford Buttress.

Burbage North

Another fine Sunday so me and Paul headed for Burbage North. I started proceedings with a lead of Mutiny Crack (HS 4c), a fine climb with good positions, good holds and good protection but just not long enough. Paul then led Wollock HVS 4c another fine climb with a testing finish.
Paul leading Wollock.
 I followed by leading Pulcherrime (VS 4b) the crack line to the right which gives a a stiff jamming test.
We then spent lots of time and energy trying to climb The Grogan a gnarly HVS 5b before giving it best and retreating to Hollyash Wall where Paul led Big Chimney Arete (HS 4b).
At this point we succumbed to the lure of tea and cake at Outside cafe.

Tuesday, 11 June 2013

Summer Sunday on Stanage.

On Sunday Paul and me found themselves at Stanage, a place that we once would have avoided like the plague on a sunny summery day.
We headed for High Neb which was quite busy but not enough to have to queue for routes. Paul started off on the classic old favourite High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) which relents after a stiff start and gives some good delicate slab climbing.

Paul on High Neb Buttress
 I then led Tango Buttress an HS with a 5a start and pleasant climbing above. Next Paul led another old favourite Inaccessible Crack (VS 4c) again with a tough start and interesting moves further up to an good steep finishing crack.
I then attempted Straight Crack (S 4b) but failed on the final moves due to weak arms and lack of moral fibre. Paul led it and solved the crux move without difficulty and I followed with difficulty.
After that we decided that it was time for the cafe and look at replacements for my worn out rock shoes

Saturday, 8 June 2013

Burbage South Evening Meet.

The following report is again gleaned from the participants reports so I accept no responsibility for the accuracy thereof.
The attendees split into two teams Mick and Nidal forming one team and Christine and Paul the other.
Nidal began by leading Fox House Flake (VS 4b) while Paul and Christine started out on Staircase (HS 4b) to warm up, they then did Byne's Crack (VS 4b) a classic at the grade.
Mick led Reginald (VS 4b) before making a noisy aided ascent of Roof Route (VS 4c) a notorious off width crack.

Mick leading Reginald.

Paul and Christine then finished on Gable Route (HVS 4c) a more pleasant companion to Roof Route.

May Bank Holiday Weekend

The following is Pauls account of the May day week-end trip to Llanberis.

Jago and Paul joined up with Andy Saxby a fellow CC member at Tremadoc on Saturday climbing a combination of Meshach and Shadrach (VS 4c) followed by an ascent of Scratch (VS 4c).


Andy Saxby on Meshach first Pitch
Jago on Scratch pitch 2.
On Sunday they headed out to the Moelwyns where Jago and Paul climbed Pinky (VS) but failed on Slant due to it being covered in moss and heather.
Meanwhile Colin and Bev climbed Kirkus's Direct (S) and Slack (S).
Mondays gales and rain forced an early trip home.