Tuesday, 24 August 2010

Borrowdale Meet

Despite an indifferent weather forecast Colin, Bev, Jago and me attended this meet and opted to climb at Shepherds Crag on Saturday. I set off on the first pitch of Adam (VS 5a) which started with a steep wet groove. The difficulties however were short lived and easy ground led to a belay. Jago led the second pitch which was steep and varied with good holds and protection.
Colin and Bev did Desperation (Severe) which gave some good climbing in its lower pitch but had a scrappy finish.
Following Adam Jago led Derision Grooves (VS) which followed grooves to a traverse on good holds to the Belvedere. This gave good steady climbing though the crux is surmounding some loose flakes. The top of the route has suffered a rock fall but the route is unaffected just the capping overhanging flakes have disappeared.
Colin and Bev meanwhile did Crescendo (HS) which again gave some good climbing.
On Sunday Jago led Aberration (VS) on Quayfoot Buttress with Colin and Bev following.

Jago on Aberration
     Bev following Aberration.

Thursday, 19 August 2010

Backyard ski touring

On 10th August, myself and Joan O'Donnell left the eastern shore of Lake Tekapo (NZ) and headed up the hill towards the Two Thumbs range. Sadly, a vigorous Nor'Wester a few days earlier had lifted the snow line, and we had a few hours' walk before we could don skis and skins. We reached the Rex Simpson hut at dusk. This is owned by a guiding company, but situated on conservation land, and so may be used by the public. Next morning dawned clear, and we skinned up Camp stream towards Stag Saddle, about 8km. away.





The Two Thumbs isn't glaciated, and it's possible to find easy-angled routes to most places. This was no small consideration following the NW storm, as there had been plenty of recent avalanche activity. We were on rain-crust to start with, but the snow improved to nothing short of sublime as we gained height. The run back down to the hut was most enjoyable.



We awoke to clag next day, and skinned to an old musterers' hut, Camp Stream hut. This was as rough as the Rex Simpson was posh, but much cheaper. Well, free. The clag cleared by lunchtime, and we headed 3km up a leading ridge towards Pyramid Peak. The run down was careful, rather than whooping, again on a rain crust. Most of the evening was fully occupied trying to split logs into pieces small enough to fit in the tiny firebox of the ancient stove, using ice-axe and knife. We headed down next day, having seen noone else in the four days.




Monday, 16 August 2010

Castle Naze

On Sunday Paul and me decided to renew our aquaintance with Castle Naze; not having climbed there for a good many years. The crag is in a quiet corner of the western peak and has a scenic outlook over meadows and moorland but was surprisingly popular with numerous parties on the routes when we arrived.

Crowd scene at Castle Naze
I started off by leading Keep Arete (VS 4b) which I found testing at the grade but good climbing. Paul followed up with a lead of Pilgrims Progress (S 4a) which again we found stiff for the grade. Both climbs succumbed to a determined approach.
I then led Scoop Face (HVS 5a) which had a tricky start leading to a runner at half way which consisted of a size 3 friend rattling about in a size 4 hole. This made for a nervy finish up a steep wall.

   
Clive on Scoop Face
Paul then led Nozag a 3 star VS 4c which again was hard for the grade but as usual Paul managed to get plenty of protection even on the so called bold face. I then led The Crack (VS 4b) before we called it a day.
Neither of us could quite remember our last visits in the distant past so unusually for the Peak the climbing seemed new and more interesting, definitely worth the ride out.

Friday, 13 August 2010

Thurgoland Boundary Walk

After the Penistone Boundary walk me and Jen decided to try the Thurgoland Boundary Walk. We were joined by Colin and Bev who were still training for their Kilimanjaro trip.
The walk started at the Bridge Inn at the bottom of Thurgoland and after a mile or so of road followed the bank of the river Don to the Romticle Viaduct then through fields, one containing a large bull, to Cheesebottom Farm. More riverside and woods led to Oxspring and up the road to the top of Coates Lane.
From there Blacker Green Lane took us to the Dove Valley Trail and Silkstone Common where we visited the Huskar pit disaster memorial.

Coiln and Bev at the Huskar memorial.
The walk continued over fields and through woods to Partridge Dale and Eastfield to the Monkey where we enjoyed a drink and a chat to the eccentric but friendly landlord Anthony while it poured outside.
More footpaths across fields led to Crane Moor then over the hill and back down to the Bridge Inn.
Leaving the Monkey.....

...and heading to Crane Moor.
The walk goes through some varied scenery, much of it delightful, with river, woods and open fields but is quite arduous with plenty of ups and downs. There are three pubs on the route so plenty of opportunity for refreshments.


Evening Meet - High Neb

Me and Jago were the first arrivals followed shortly(?) by Mick. I led Tango Buttress (HS 5a) and Jago and Mick followed, Mick avoiding the crux start by judicious use of the adjacent crack. Meanwhile Paul arrived and followed me on High Neb Buttress (VS 4c) while Jago led Mick up Inaccessible Crack (VS 4c).

Jago leading Inaccessible Crack

Christine then arrived just in time to second High Neb Buttress.


Christine on High Neb Buttress

We then moved on to Inacessible Crack which I led while Jago and Mick climbed twisting crack.
I then led Norse Corner Climb which Christine followed. Jago and Mick were still on High Neb Buttress when we left as dusk fell. 
Despite a cold wind and a lack of form we all enjoyed an evenings climbing on some good quality routes.

Wednesday, 4 August 2010

Curbar Evening Meet

Once again the crag was almost deserted with one team leaving as me, Christine and Mick arrived. A stiff breeze ensured a midge free evening and we started off with Bel ami (VS 4b) as a warm up.
Christine following on Bel Ami.
This proved to be a bit stiffer than we all remembered but succumbed to a determined approach.
No evening meet on Curbar would be the same without doing PMC1 (HS 4a) a classic at the grade.

Clive leading PMC1....

....and Mick following.
By this time the stiff breeze had turned into a strong wind which was too cold for comfort at the top of the crag so we finished off with a quick ascent of Owl's Arete ( HS 4c).


Penistone Boundary Walk

I joined Colin and Bev and other participents of their Kilimanjaro trip on a training walk round the Penistone boundary.
We all met up at Cubley Hall, the start and finish of the 16 mile walk. Cubley Hall is situated on the outskirts of the town so straight away we were into the countryside. Apart from a short stretch of urban road walking through Springvale the rest of the walk is on minor roads, country lanes and footpaths.

 Leaving town......
....into the countryside.
Being around Penistone the walk has plenty of ups and downs but is never too arduous. It skirts round between Silkstone and Thurgoland to Gunthwaite dam, back up to Scout Dyke then over to the viewpoint at Royd Moor, then through Bullhouse and up to Hartcliff Hill before dropping back down to Cubley Hall.
  Route finding difficulties at Gadding Moor
The walk goes through a varied landscape from woodlands and arable fields to moorland edge pastures and finishes at a pub which sells real ale. What more can you ask from a walk?


Froggat Evening Meet

 Froggat Edge was unusually free from climbers when Me, Jago and Christine arrived.
Jago took the first lead on Sickle Buttress Direct (VS 4c) which went easily up a steep wall to a thin finishing move.
Sickle Buttres Direct
Clive then led Trapeze Direct (VS 5a) which is a well protected one move wonder but the move proved to be quite difficult for an aging body.
 The crux of Trapeze Direct
With dusk approaching we decided on a quick ascent of Diamond Crack (HS 4b) to close out the evening. 
Clive leading Diamond Crack
 This route gave well protected but steep climb up jamming cracks and finished off an enjoyable evening climbing routes that I had neglected for quite a few years.  

FRCC Meet- Brackenclose

Nick, Christine and me attended the FRCC meet at Brackenclose, the club hut in Wasdale. Saturday arrived with low cloud covering the high fells so we opted to climb at Wallowbarrow a low lying crag in Duddondale.
After inspecting the new bunkhouse at Wallowbarrow Farm courtesy of the occupants we decided to start on Western Wall (VS 4b). This gave good steep climbing after a delicate traverse all at a reasonable grade.

Western Wall start

 

At the top of the climb threatening clouds were rolling up the valley and by the time we were established on the next climb it was persisting it down. We abandoned thoughts of climbing and had a short but pleasant walk round over to Grassguards and back down the river in the rain.
On Sunday the weather was still uninspiring so we headed for Leighton Moss where we were treated to close up views of an Osprey fishing and Marsh Harriers hunting.


Monday, 2 August 2010

Roaches

On the World Cup Final day I went to the Roaches with Christine to make some use of her new guidebook.
The crag was strangely quiet for a Sunday with just a few parties scattered about the crag. We headed for the left hand end of the upper crag, an area we had neglected somewhat for a few years.
We started out with an old favourite for a warm up, Fern Crack a HVD with a 4b start. Christine then led Damascus Crack S 4a which gave some good climbing but we avoided the sandbag VS 4b finish.
We then moved on to Contrary Mary VS 4b which had a stiff overhanging start and a steep bold finish after scrambling through the heather.

Clive on the bold finish to Contrary Mary
We then went on to climb Runner Route S 4a which gave good climbing up a slab to a so-so finishing crack.

Runner Route
With a half ganley under our belts we decided we had just enough time to get back for the World Cup Final.