Wednesday, 30 June 2010

Crow Chin Evening Meet

Mick and Nidal were established on Kellys Eliminate (HS 4a) by the time Me and Jago arrived. A stiff breeze protected against the heat and the midges and several routes were ascended including Feathered Friends, Kellys Eliminate, Spring Sunshine and October Slab. Jago climbed Marmoset, a climb that always provides some entertainment for both climbers and watchers. Mick and Nidal bagged a full Ganley and as usual Christine arrived late but managed to lead a hybrid version of Kellys Eye before sundown.   
Nidal on Kellys Eliminate

Jago on Marmoset
 
 
Christine on Kellys Eye

Secret Stanage

Paul suggested Secret Stanage to avoid the crowds as it was a fine Sunday morning so we headed straight for Titanic Buttress where Paul led Titanic and I led Q.E.2 both being good VSs, Titanic being particularly good. Moving along Paul led Genesis (HVS 5a) on Magazine Buttress a thin crack line with small holds and some good moves.
Paul fixing gear on Genesis
By now it was getting hot and I decided to lead Central Buttress in the Enclosure area. After some attempts at the strenuous crux move on sweaty slopey holds I avoided it on the right and gained the upper slab. Paul followed the proper way with some difficulty and we decided that the heat was too much for grit so we ambled back to the car.

Monday, 28 June 2010

Pedraforca - Catalan Pyrenees

Carolina and I recently spent a weekend in the Pyrenees where we made the classic ascent of Pedraforca.


The name of this mountain translates as ‘Rock Fork’ as it has 2 distinct summits, separated by a col and steep scree gully. Our route took us to the highest of the twin peaks – Pollego Superior which stands at 2497 metres.






The route was strenuous from the start, with the first couple of hours spent climbing steep forests paths until we broke out of the tree line and gained a small col from where the views made all the sweating and toil worthwhile.



From the col, the route to the summit was a long scramble up the ridge. This part of the route was excellent – the scrambling essentially followed the crest of the ridge straight to the summit (grade 1-2). The final section just below the summit was quite exposed but straight forward. The views were spectacular. Whilst on the scramble, we were accompanied by a pair of Alpine Choughs and a Rock Bunting.






Having lingered on the summit long enough to decide that the typical pattern of sunny mornings and stormy afternoon may well prove to be the case, we headed for the col in between the twin peaks from where we made the long scree-run back down to the valley.


Friday, 18 June 2010

Birchens Evening Meet

Me and Jago arrived to find Mick and Nidal about to attempt Sail Buttress (HS4b). While Mick led that route I decided to lead Topsail (VS 4c). Still suffering with a chest infection my arms felt weak on the overhang but judicious use of knees saw me through and onto the top slab. While belaying Jago the first midges arrived and so did Dennis who assessed the midge threat and promptly vanished.
After soloing the 5a problem finish to Captains Bunk I arrived back at the bottom where the midges were becoming more voracious. I left Jago leading Nelsons Slab (HS5a) with the aid of 100% DEET and Mick seconding with a full head net, Nidal seemed to be unaffected by the little terrors.
 Jago getting established on Nelsons Slab
Nidal then led Porthole Direct and Mick led Camperdown Crawl (or should that be Campervan Crawl).

Tuesday, 15 June 2010

Eskdale Meet

Saturday seemed set for fine weather so the walk in to Esk Buttress was deemed worthwhile and proved to be a good choice. The walk in although quite long is steady and has some stunning views and the weather held with sunshine and a cool breeze.

There were a good few teams on the crag most of which were queueing for Bridges Route or Central Pillar. Paul and Jago elected for Black Sunday (HVS 5a) while Christine and Nick chose Bowers Route (HS) both of which were unoccupied. I was nursing a chest infection so decided to save my energies for the walk out. 

Paul setting out on Black Sunday


Christine and Nick on Bowers Route.
Paul and Jago were impressed by the quality of their route particularly the first pitch while Nick and Christine though theirs to be a traditional mountaineering route with more than its share of vegetation. All of us enjoyed a good day out though.
Sunday morning saw a change in the weather with persistent rain sending us on our way home.