Friday, 26 February 2010

Braemar Meet

Christine, Nick, Jago and me arrived at Braemar to find snow down to the roadside and temperatures of minus 14 Centigrade.
On Saturday Jago and me had an early start aiming for West Gulley (IV) on Lochnagar. while descending into the corrie the accumulation of powder snow on top of ice and evidence of windslab avalanches convinced us that gullies weren't a good choice and after some prevarication we finally decided to attempt Central Buttress (II) the sunlit ridge in the picture.


 We soloed up an easy introductory gully then roped up on the east flank of the ridge which gave a couple of pitches of mixed climbing on powder covered rock and heather with the occasional bit of ice. Protection was sparse and although the climbing was technically easy the conditions gave some cause for concern.


By now the sun had disappeared and we were feeling the cold. While shivering on the stances we were aware of being watched by Nick and Christine who had enjoyed a pleasant ascent of Lochnagar in the sunshine.

Once the crest of the ridge was gained the difficulties were over and steady snow slopes led to a small cornice to gain the plateau.




From the summit plateau we had extensive views over the cairngorms and began our return journey in the setting sun.


On Sunday Nick and Christine completed a round of four Munros east of Glenshee in the same excellent conditions while Jago and me returned home.