A New Crag!

We´ve recently spent a few afternoons on a newly developed crag close to Xativa. For those who know the area, it´s on the opposite side of the valley to Aventador. It was found by pure chance by a friend who considered the area worthy of exploration and potential for new routes...when he arrived there he found to his astonishment that the local climbing club had just finished putting up the final routes!

There are a total of 65 new routes, ranging from 4+ to 7a. Despite being a "new crag" the rock is in good condition with only a few loose holds. With time it will improve further as the holds clean up.

Last Sunday, 5 of us spent the day there - Carolina, Luis, Nick, Bill and myself. The weather was beautiful with clear blue skies and absolutely no wind. By mid afternoon we were climbing in T-shirts although as soon as the sun began to dip behind the mountains we were quick to search out the duvet jackets...living this far south makes you soft!

The development of this new crag makes the town of Xativa an ideal climbing base adding to the already developed Bellus, Aventador, Xativa South Face and Montessa.

Best wishes to all for a very Happy Christmas and a Prosperous and Safe 2012.

Buttermere 19/11/11

On the weekend of 19/20 November, Clive, Colin, Bev, Chris and Nick were staying at Birkness the FRCC hut in Buttermere carrying out general maintenance duties.
The weather was fine with the occassional sunny spells.

With limited recreational time on the Saturday, Clive, Chris and me decided to have a short walk down Honister Pass to see where the previous weekend we had gone wrong on our mountain biking circuit. Yes we did find the track off to the left, yes it did have a sign! Nothing more to be said on that matter other than we were told that a lot of people miss the turn off!

On the Sunday Clive, Colin and Bev had a pleasent walk around Buttermere Lake.
While Chris and myself made a trip to Shepherds to climb Little Chamonix.

The weather was perfect, a party was already on the route but well in front.

Chris lead off with the lower section a little damp and greasy but not causing any problems, after this the rock was perfectly dry.

I had the plumb top pitch bathed in sunshine-What a great gem this is.

To finish a great weekend we all had a trip to the Flock-in Tearoom complete with lamb stew and pasties Yum!

Borrowdale Meet -12/11/11

Friday night Clive, Jago, Chris and Nick arrived at the CC hut at Grange in Borrowdale. We were the sole occupants. Paul arrived Saturday morning.
For the quartet it was to be mountain biking, and for Paul a short walk as he is restricted with his hip and can only manage a 5 hour walk these days!
Clive had suggested a ride in Whinlatter Forest but this would mean ferrying the bikes around to the pass. I tabled riding from the hut on the classic Borrowdale round Derwent, Keswick, Watendlath, Honister Pass and back past Castle Crag.

Everything started well after a short maintenance session and much vigorous tyre pumping session by Clive!

We headed North passed Derwent Lake until we could take the bridleway below Catbells Ridge which after a short climb gave a great descent back down to the minor road,

After passing through Keswick and now heading South we turned to climb up towards Ashness Bridge and Watendlath. Clive decided to meet us in Seatoller.
The road climb to Watendlath was slow but steady once the initial steep bits were over.

The cafe at Watendlath was dismissed as Clive would be waiting. We pressed on up the bouldery bridleway until it was possible to ride the descent! or not; or at least not all the way. Great nontheless.

A bit of Dabbing!

A lot of Dabbing!!

No Dabbing.....Just a great place to be.

Once at the bottom we met Clive and Paul who was on his 'ramble' up the route we had descended.

It was now time for a breather so we headed for the Tearoom and what a fine tearoom the 'Flock-in',

with a fine selection of buns and cakes along with pint pots of tea!

Tearoom with our descent route in the background above Christines head in the distance.

It was now time to warm the legs once more, this time on Honister Pass, what joy.

The initial steep section over, it was time to tackle the steeper section or at least until lungs and legs gave way and it was a final bikepush which gave no relief at all.

Once we had our lungs back it was time to head for home down the bridlway which contours round the fell to a col between High Doat and Dale Head. Unfortunately we got too carried away enjoying the fast descent and missed our turn off - an easy mistake to make we learned later.

After much map checking and fell climbing we assended, contoured, dropped down again we were gratefully back on track. Thankfully we could manage steady riding on a smooth track, Oh unless you are Clive looking to make an entry in the peel of the year or should I say face plant!

A lovely cut above the eye and a nice 4 inch gash on his shin to prove it. This would result in another hospital tick to the quaintly names 'Keswick Cottage Hospital' They have a minor injuries unit but dont expect to get any stitches they don't do those!

                                             Great Haemapod ...............shame about the legs!!

Just a side note, Clive was ably patched up by Dr Trasler and his amazing first aid kit which once again needs restocking after a trip out with Clive!

We finally made it down passed the rocky section beside Castle Crag with caution now taking presidence to avoid further mishaps, Oh..........unfortunately Clive had an attack of cramp,.......'Ouch'

The final ride into Grange passed without mishap.
A Good ride with plenty of incident ..Cracking!!

Paul accomplished his round without too much trouble, expecting to see us lounging in the hut but arriving back well before us.

Peak Orienteering and Biking 6/11/11

Sunday morning Chris and Nick had a trip into the peak, Chris was to enter an orienteering event at Ramsley Moor near Baslow and I was to bike within easy dropping off from Owler Bar roundabout.
The weather was fine and sunny, Chris dropped me off as scheduled and I set off in the direction of Fox House.
Steady roadwork to warm the legs through arriving at Fox House 30mins later from there I headed towards a bridleway which leads pleasantly over Totley Moor until a track is taken to drop down into the muddy valley bottom then a slow climb back up to the main Sheffield Rd.
Then the tough descent down the Blacka Moor bridleway with large boulders, steep and narrow until the fast singletrack through the woods leads to Shorts Lane and more road climbing for1.5km again to the Sheffield Rd.



After following Sheephill Road I took a rough Byway and climbed up onto Houndkirk Moor.

Heading along the main Byway towards Ringinglow Rd, up the road and back across Houndkirk Moor giving fantastic views across to Kinder in the distance, heading back towards Fox House with a final sprint along the gravel track and hopefully where my lift home was waiting

Chris was indeed waiting in the car park having just arrived not so fresh from her run across, around, down, up and around Ramsley Moor! I get the impression that controls aren't where they should be according to the map!! But Chris enjoyed her run out all the same.

Another Fine day

Pendle Hill

The Forest of Bowland area around Clitheroe is not much visited by the club so we that is Clive, Colin, Bev and Paul  decided to climb Pendle Hill.
We began our walk from the village of Barley, the hill presents a whaleback shape from here with a long broad ridge sloping northwards to the summit.


Looking back towards Barley.

 Our planned route was to take a path by the two Ogden reservoirs and climb the clough to the western edge of the summit plateau then round to the summit.

Ogden Reservoirs

An navigational error at the start took onto a parallel path to the one intended and the mutinous crew refused to divert to the original plan and took the direct route up the eastern edge to the summit. This gave a steady plod up a fairly gentle slope to the summit.
By now the hill was very busy and we joined the crowds on the summit to enjoy widespread views from Blackpool Tower over the Yorkshire Dales to the Lake District.

Distant Lake District Hills from the Summit.

The Summit Cairn

 We descended the steep eastern flank of the hill then took footpaths through small fields and a riverside path back to Barley.

Ski-touring in Franz Josef, October 2011

The following blog is from Rob Hill in New Zealand.

After much study of weather-maps and tea-leaves, four people from Geraldine and one person from Timaru eventually set out, after a couple of postponements, for a ski-touring trip on the Franz Josef glacier, on the West coast of the South Island of NZ.
The lower part of the glacier is an ice-fall which comes down almost to the coast, and is much visited by tourists; the upper part is a huge area of interconnected glaciers and nevee. The distance from Geraldine to
Franz Josef is probably about 80km as the crow flies, but 500km by road, via Arthur's Pass.

The tea-leaves told lies, and we had to spend a day exploring the beach at Okarito, disturbing the seals as they basked. The sky was clear and blue, but apparently there were strong easterlies up in the mountains, preventing flying in. We choppered in early next morning to the Almer hut, which sits on rocks above the icefall at around 1700m.

The Almer Hut.

A quick sort-out, and we cramponed off along the side of the glacier, donning skis once above the last of the major icefalls. The gradient then was very gentle, and we were able to cover a lot of ground, exploring the various arms. The run back at the end of the day was a little sticky.

Longdrop and the Franz Glacier

The easterlies which had kept us in the valley the day before had forced snow up between the roofing iron and the ceiling of the hut. When we returned, the majority of the area of the ceiling was steadily dripping water so I had the novel experience of having to use my bivvy bag inside a hut.
It blew mightily during the night, and the next day was raining and claggy. Some of us emerged at about 3pm, this time finding a way up the middle of the glacier. The run back was much better than the day before.

Our last day produced the weather the tea-leaves had promised- blue and still. We traversed round on crampons to the Salisbury glacier and skinned up to the saddle with the Franz Josef.

Salisbury-Franz Col

View down the Salisbury Glacier

Then followed a delightful run back down, on perfect snow in the upper part, still a little hard in the lower. We traversed back round to the hut on very sloppy snow, to meet the helicopter at around 1.30.
It's a huge area to explore, as is the neighbouring Fox glacier. Much of the snow gradient is gentle, yet even some peaks of the main divide are accessible when conditions allow.

Peak Biking -31st Oct 2011

Monday was a day off work so we decided to load the bikes on the car and head to the Peak.

We parked along the Road to Fairholmes and headed up the sharp climb passed Crook Hill farm which soon warmed the legs! Continue to climb up through the pastures with fine views over to Derwent edge (where we would be ascending later).

A great ride along sandy tracks and then through the trees with a cautious decent onto the reservoir road.



Having followed the road around the reservoir past Fairholmes it was the tough climb up to Derwent edge.Well worth the effort eventually giving the fantastic decent down towards Cutthroat Bridge.

The final section led us along the bridleway passsed the rear of Ladybower Inn with a final rocky section waiting to catch us out.

Another smashing day out completed with egg and chips in Hathersage!

Yorkshire Dales Meet – Hawes 15/16 Oct

A glorious sunny Saturday morning, great prospects for a mountain bike trek around Dodd fell.

Jago Christine and Nick were the meet attendees staying in Hawes Youth Hostel

Arrangements made to meet at Hawes car park 10.00am prompt or 11.00 if not! Obligatory café stop to fuel up for the ride and away we went; a circuit of Dodd fell approx 30k and an ascent of 650m. A steady 7k along quiet roads to warm up then the 10k climb up the Cam High Road, steady at first then steepening near its summit- excellent, we were all pleased with our efforts.

  

 

From this high point we dropped down to meet the road to Gayle. We soon meet our turn off and sweep around to the South of Dodd fell on a good track; the West Cam Rd. This then follows the Pennine Way where a bridleway heads North via a rutted track complete with deep pockets of standing water and mud!! ……………….. Christine seemed to take a liking to these!!

The track then descends passing between and over limestone blocks, Firm ground soon passes and we encounter the boggy moor waiting to claim its victims.

The final section lead down into picturesque Gayle and finally into Hawes where the café awaits for well deserved tea and cake.

– A cracking ride!

Spain, 30th Sept -8th Oct

Our Spanish trip to see Dave and Carolina.

After a steady days birding we had a days climbing at Alcalali, plenty of steady routes 4+ and 5’s to work up a sweat in the 30 degree heat!

Chris managed to second the thuggy 6a Stohlwitter – see below

2 days were spent at Sella. Our first day consisted of a walk up and along the ridge Penon de Sella, a circular walk from the village which took about 4.5 hours giving fantastic views.

It was fiesta week at Sella and we were rewarded with lots of fireworks, loud bangs, flashes, huge rockets and violent explosions well into the early hours-GREAT!

The whole village was out in force as the main square was taken over by 2 rival local Pelota teams. We could not make head or tail of the rules but it seemed all the village were out to watch and support. It basically involves one team serving a small leather bound ball -slightly larger than a golf ball –from one end of the narrow entrance to the square towards the waiting opposition, they have to return the ball which can come off walls roofs widows etc. Everyone seemed to be enjoying the game which went on for hours.

Our second day at Sella was spent climbing on the main local crags at the usual grades 4, 4+, 5; six in all, dashing for shade at every opportunity in between leads.

Returning back to Casa David & Carolina in Gandia we had a trip inland to the edge of the Steppes, an elevated area where cereals are grown on the fertile plains. Here we had great views of Little and Great Bustards, firsts for my Europe bird list.

Our last days climbing was on the Penon at Calpe. Our preferred route was Via Valencianos (5+) the classic and popular climb on the South face. We had hoped to climb partly out of the sun but as it happened there was thin cloud cover which made the temperature ideal for the duration of the route.

The route has a couple of easy scrammbly pitches then the awkward crux pitch, which is now polished to a glass like finish! Chris managed this with relative ease, unfortunately I managed to crush the camera and damage the screen-bugger.

3 more decent pitches followed of 4 and 4+ which lead to a magnificent position astride the ridge overlooking Calpe harbour and then the final summit push. A fine route to finish off.

A great week with special thanks to Dave and Carolina

Our Guides on the Valencia coast

Recent Events.

Just a brief note to summarise recent events. We´ve enjoyed a few evenings climbing on Gandia Crag which never seems to get any easier!...just that kind of place! Mountain biking is becoming more comfortable now that temperatures are dropping to somewhere near sensible, so recent trips have included a newly designed 70km route from home, over the mountains then up a beautiful narrow valley to the old town of Xativa.

Most of my time has however been spent on preparing the new business which hopefully should be fully up and running by November. The name of the business will be Nature Trail Spain. The key services will be Guided Bird Watching Trips, Guided Mountain Bike Trips and Beginners Skills Courses. I´ll be able to offer such as one-off day trips or part of a package deal that includes accommodation here in Spain.

My websites are :

www.valenciabirding.com

www.mountainbikingvalencia.com

Please feel free to pass on my details to as many people as possible...I need to start spreading the word!

Will write with more soon.

The following was submitted by Jago.

My friend Henrik visited the Peak for four days last weekend with his friends Ygge, Daniel and Peder. I’d warned them beforehand to bring their midge repellent and waterproofs and this proved good advice.

Peder, Henrik, Ygge & Daniel at Stanage

On Thursday they enjoyed a sunny evening climbing on Bamford until a hungry black cloud of midges descended and drove these particular Vikings back to their B&B in Hope. When I joined them the next morning the weather forecast predicted a blustery and wet day. However the weather proved to be better than expected and so we all enjoyed a day climbing at Millstone Edge. The Swedes bagged many of the usual classic VS routes.

Henrik & Ygge on Embankment Route 2

On Saturday morning the weather again looked doubtful. The Swedes opted for the British tradition of sitting in Outside’s cafe drinking tea until Della and I joined them just before midday. Naturally many in the party were keen to visit Stanage, but unfortunately as we walked up to the Popular End it began to rain. I then redirected them to Burbage South in the hope of better conditions.
At Burbage the weather remained showery but the rock was never really adversely affected and so the Swedes were able to enjoy ascents of Mutiny Crack, Pulcherrime, Knight’s Move, and at least more VS. My daughter Della (3yrs.) summed up Henrik’s heroic efforts on Mutiny Crack whilst observing from the comfort of a nearby boulder: “That’s silly - it’s just like going upstairs!”

On Sunday the boys enjoyed successful day on Froggatt Edge, including Henrik leading Chequers Buttress. On Monday I joined them at Stanage where they all ascended Christmas Crack, Via Media, Central Trinity, Hargreaves’ Original Route, and Inverted V before it finally started to rain.



Peder Leading Central Trinity 




Henrik & Daniel on Christmas Crack

At this point I left, however the conditions improved again later and further ascents were made at Lawrencefield.

Eskdale Meet.

Two weeks working in South Africa meant that I missed this meet based at Fisherground campsite so this post is based on reports from some of the attendees.
Christine, Nick, Paul and Jago attended and in the generally damp conditions they decided on Hare Crag on Saturday. This proved to be dry and provided a few climbs on the various tiers including Fireball XL5 (MVS), Jugged Hare (MVS), Slab Route (S) and Spiked Hare (E2 5c)

Sunday was wet so no climbing was done but apparently some cafes were visited.

Whernside

On bank holiday Sunday I joined Colin and Bev and the bank holiday crowds on Whernside for another recce for the three peaks.
The route up Whernside has changed since I last did the three peaks and now takes a long diversion north before gradually climbing up the north ridge to the summit. The new route is substantially longer but much easier going and passes a picturesque waterfall in Force Gyll.

Starting out.

The summit gave far reaching views from Morecambe Bay to the Lake District and Howgill Fells and in the other direction almost the full extent of the three peaks walk.
We continued down southwards from the summit before dropping down to Bruntscar farm where we left the three peaks route and headed back to Ribblehead via Gunnerfleet farm.  

Monsal Trail and Chee Dale

Jen and me decided to take a look at the new Monsal Trail which follows the old Bakewell to Buxton railway line. The line has been resurfaced and the tunnels opened and lit to provide a fine cycle track/walkway down the Wye valley.
We parked at Wye Dale and joined the trail at Blackwell, as could be expected the trail provides easy walking and give good views of the crags such as Plum Buttress. The trail was very busy particularly with cyclists but the walk was enjoyable nontheless.
We left the trail at a signpost for Cressbrook and took a narrow path along the valley side which gave excellent views over the valley before descending to Cressbrook.

Looking back to Litton Mill

From the renovated mill at Cressbrook we walked back via Water-cum-Jolly, Litton Mill and Ravenstor to Millersdale. After a refreshment stop we continued via Chee Dale to Blackwell where we had a welcome tea and pop stop at the new cycle hire shop.
The walk took longer and was more tiring than we expected but was enjoyable and interesting throughout.

Summer Afternoon at Bellus

Carolina and I together with our friend Nick and his family spent a lazy summer´s afternoon at a beautiful limestone valley near Bellus. Bellus is close to the historical town of Xativa, some 40 minutes drive from home (not far from Aventador for those who know the area).
The crag at Bellus largely comprises steep hard routes of 6a+ and above. There are however some good mid grade routes to be enjoyed by mere mortals such as I.

We began on a couple of 4+ routes named El Molino and Pera Pares.

Dave on El Molino 4+

Sufficiently lured into a sense of false security Nick then lead me up El Buitre Pescador, a sustained and thin 6a+.

Nick leading Buitre Pescador 6a+

Dave seconding Buitre Pescador 6a+

Having reached the point where finger strength was running out we decided to end the afternoon by having a swim in the river at the foot of the crag, followed by a coffee in the village.